PROJECT PROBLEM...

I will update this soon.

The situation at present is that I met with an accident on Thursday night on my way back to the hotel after our group dinner and night out.

I am leaving Quito tomorrow morning as I need to be repatriated to Britain both for medical checks and to facilitate the production of a new passport.

As soon as I have further project information, I will update this blog.

Thank-you to Caroline for sending me the attached photographs.

Brazilian Feedback...

A compilation of the ideas and comments which came up in the essays
written by First Certificate level students at the Brazilian Private
Sector School - CEB



Dr.William Glover, a Scot traveling the world with a project to create
international understanding, to get people to know about countries and
the way folks live, to do away with prejudice and to make English into
the language of world relationships, came to the school to give a talk
about the importance of English.
He turned up rather casually dressed and the audience thought that he
was treating the occasion with some disregard as they had been told that
one should always dress well for a public occasion . Actually he told
me that he felt so at ease in São Paulo seeing that people wore no
uniform that he dressed, perhaps, too casually.

I interject here in my defense to point out that I am travelling the globe for 14 months with one back-pack and as I explained I am not Mickey Mouse, I cannot just open my pack and magic up suits...I did explain this to the students and indeed made the fact that I felt inappropriately dressed a feature of the lesson...explaining the significance of appropriate dress for business.

The students appreciated the possibility of a blog to communicate in
English with students in the world. Everyone can access his blog by going
to google - William Glover University of Glasgow - building blocks and
read his daily report.
Some of Will's comments, though, were not well received because of the
way he expressed himself. Probably some more explaining would have
cleared misunderstandings.
In a nutshell, you cannot tell an audience in a foreign country that
without English there won't be a future and that the Brits needn't bother
to learn another language as everyone else learns English, anyway.
After all, language learning is also learning about a new culture. What
Will actually meant was that English native speakers are too arrogant to
bother to learn another language. I would like to ad that in most
British schools they still teach French and Greek and are now beginning to
give importance to German and Spanish.
University students take a one-year leave to go abroad to work as
trainees and to learn some of the language and culture of the country they
are in. To end on a lighter note, Dr William Glover wrote in his blog
very enthusiastically about CEB, pointing out that school canteens in
England have a lot to learn from Brazilian cooking. He considered the meal
he was invited to at the school very healthy and highly tasty.
He also stressed the friendliness of the reception, that students had
been appointed to show him round, that coordinators told him about the
school philosophy and the attention students paid to his talk. He said
that for students who are at Cambridge PET level they could understand a
lot and communicate well. He was impressed.
I, as the Cultura Inglesa Manager, and the teachers were proud of their
students who said that they had understood about 90%, besides being
able to communicate. And this was the purpose of this meeting: To expose
students to a native speaker for them to realize that they know a lot of
English.
If Dr. William returned one day, I guess, the students would feel much
freer to chat with him about his experience during his trip around the
Americas.


Compiled by Christina Thornton - Cultura Inglesa manager

This information points to the importance of clarity in communication. There certainly must have been some misunderstanding, as I was attempting to make it clear that English is an important communication tool for business use. I never said that Brits don´t need to learn other languages and I am glad that it seems to have gotten through that I was pointing out the arrogance of Brits and Americans when it comes to learning other languages...i.e. If they don´t understand shout louder!


From: GF - Vila Mariana
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 3:03 PM
To: Lizika Goldchleger
Subject: Will

Lizika,

Will's talk was a huge success. There were about 60 people in the audience. Pity we can't have repeats!

Bj

Solange Rollo
Gerente Vila Mariana
solange@culturainglesasp.com.br
(11) 5549 1722

Life in Ecuador

It is Monday morning and I am very sick. Finally we are told that our trip around Ecuador has had to be abandoned because of the natural disater in Baños. The decision is made to head North.

First stop will be the wood working town of San Antonio de Ibarra. I am really enjoying the landscape, but not this country...if that makes sense? My feeling at present is that there are so many places to see in the world, why bother with Ecuador...I am glad I have seen it, but it won´t be on my "list" to come back.

Our base for the next few days will be Hostería Arco Iris in Chota. From the pictures this place looks idilyic, but it is rustic to the point of electrocution in the shower. The rooms are filthy but there is a rural charm as this is definitely off the tourist track and essentially used by locals and as a truckstop here on the PanAmericana highway. The hostel very rarely gets Western guests and I am not tall...but the sanitary-ware here has been designed for midgets.

We spend the afternoon swimming and relaxing by the poolside. This is not the trip I planned but with travel you have to go with the flow. Whilst some of our group are happy lazing around the pool I have a burning desire to see local life. After all, I am not here to drink Piña Colada and laze by the pool...I want adventure, geography and local culture.

By Tuesday morning I am frustrated. I am aware that there have been logistical problems, but our guide told us yesterday that we would be exploring the North. At present, I feel like I am on a bus tour excursion of shopping experiences.

The collective patience of our group is being tested and whilst I am one of the many whose travel plans have been frustrated by what has been happening in Baños, I am also learning valuable lessons about social interaction and human dynmaics. I have never before been part of a tour group and I remain very much an independent traveller. Our tour though is beginning to feel like ´Big Brother´without the television cameras.

In reality what frustrates me is "Latinotime".I am used to keeping to schedules. I have always been prompt and this was only enhanced by my naval training and the five minute rule. I am discovering that in Latin America things may, or may not, happen...just don´t count on delivery.

Once we get going we are out amongst the barren rocky landscape of the Chota region. We are to visit the cultural revitilisation project in Mascarilla. This is much more than a tour of mask making in the still segregated black communities of Ecuador.

It is fascinating to learn about the clay masks and to watch a demonstration of mask making...but I want a deeper experience than tourism.

There are around 40,000 black residents in the Ibarra region who are descended from the slaves brought to South America to work on sugar plantations. The making and selling of masks is a recent initiaitive to try and move the population out of poverty.

The main industry in the region is agriculture and this is traditionally low paid. With the result in 1998 El Grupo Artesanal Esperanza Negra was established. This project awakened an identity that had been surpressed by 300 years of slavery.

The project accepts Western volunteers and as well as creating a new economic future for the town of Mascarilla through the making and selling of art works; the project also offers educational opportunities and cultural exchanges.

Naturally I had to buy a mask and I was thrilled when the ladies in the art store invited me to dance the Bomba - a local and traditional community dance - by balancing a vase on my head.

We then head over to nearby El Trapiche - the sugar cane mill where the locals ancestors worked sugar cane. I learn that a percentage of all the money spent on the artistic output of the community goes to the artist and the rest to enhancing the community facilities of this town of around 2,500 people.

As I journey on I become even more aware, if this is possible, of the very diverse landscape of Ecuador both geographically and in terms of its communities. It is much hotter here in the North than I found on my more southerly visits last week. Climbing up through the mountains it is desert like with dry sandstone banks to either side of our dusty road...but then, we open out into fertile valleys.

On the bus, one of my fellow travellers mentions that I have a lot of pictures with the ´natives´. What strikes me as interesting, is the inherent racism in that statement...had we been travelling through Western Europe the populus would have been described as ´locals´.

As we continue to climb, it is amazing how the terrain continues to change. Trust me, on this journey today I have seen many more than 40 shades of green.

As I journey on, and with time to think, I am aware just how much I liked the people in the black community and just how valuable I feel the project being carried out in Mascarilla is.

We are heading to the ecological reserve of El Angel. As we near our destination we pass fields of people harvesting potatoes. I feel very uncomfortable with this site. Passing, as I am, in a luxury coach; I am witnessing at first hand poverty. In my bag I am carrying roughly $15,000 in cash to pay for the local costs of my project and I am acutely aware that this is more money that these peasants may see in a lifetime. However, as is the case the world over, the farm owners live in luxury as you can see from some of the homes and the very expensive American 4 x 4´s that litter the road.

El Angel is home to thousands of Frailejones plants (Bunny ears) and the most featured animal is the wolf. I enjoy a pleasant afternoon hiking and climbing to a height of 3,800 metres above sea level, here in an area just 10KM from the Columbian border and civil war.

As I descend from El Angel I witness truckloads of peasants with nothing but exhaustion from another day with their back to the sun. I have been amazed at how the fields slope up the hills in a terracing akin to the planting I saw in China.

I think my lesson from this first month in South America will be getting used to Latinotime...which is slow and irregular, I wonder at times if it is going backwards.

Back at the Hostería Arco Iris in Chota, tonight I meet the aspiring young Ecuadorian artist Gaston Cesar Andrango.

I think at last that I might be breaking through the cold touristy exterior of this country. I am finding the people here in the North and off the tourist trail much more welcoming. As Gaston and I discuss his paintings, his forthcoming exhibition in Venezuela and talk into the small hours about art and philosophy, I am inspired by the romance of his work. As a taoist he is a spiritual man and he is full of that youthful vigour that comes from being ´married to your craft´. He produces both visual and physical art and as a dancer he works a great deal in the conceptual field. Before adjorning for the evening I enjoy a private salsa lesson from this talented dude!

Wednesday...Just after leaving the hotel we pass through a checkpoint where the police are looking for Columbians. This is the first of about eight checkpoints we will hit today.

This mornings´shower gave me such a shock that sparks flew from the hanging bare wires. In Europe you would sue the hotel...in rural South America, I am just glad to have water.

We arrive today at Chachimbiro hot pools where we have paid the entry for both the thermal pools and the mud baths. However, we are to find that some of the pools are under renovation and then they want us to pay again for use of the mud from the closed mud pool...this was paid in our entry fee!...I am again made aware of the attempt to rip you off at every turn that is so evident in every Ecuadorian tourist site I visit.

By the way. If you think we have potholes in the road try bussing round Ecuador for two weeks. We are heading for San Lorenzo and the heart of Ecuador´s black community where we are scheduled to spend the night. When we arrive I find that the hotel is much cleaner that the hotel where we spent the last two nights. However, the group refuse to stay.

The people I met in San Lorenzo were very friendly...and I was first of the bus...infact, I was the only one of the bus and mixing in the street.

Maybe it was the inherent racism in our group...who are by no means as WASP? Personally, I was very embarassed for the hotel owner.

Maybe it is just me, but I am much happier in the real Ecuador...but my group on this adventure holiday seem to want a beach resort. I would have stayed in San Lorenzo after all we came to see Ecuador.

Back in the bus we head to Atacames in the Esmeraldas. It is strange, but I feel far less comfortable in the tourist areas and around the tourist sites.

You cannot capture the sights you see with anything but the naked eye. From the mule laden with sticks to the young lad on his bike laden with bottles of water and carrying a live chicken (probably tonight´s meal). I am the eyes of my students.

Nor is it easy to describe your first sight this trip of the Pacific Ocean stretching out just across the fields from where our bus...loud salsa music playing, speeds by as Vincente, our driver, is forced to make it to the coast trying in vain to beat nightfall. As this journey was not part of today´s plan, I am more concerned that we make it at all!

Tonight we will dine with the Columbians in Punto Sabroso...where I return to dine on Thursday!

Thursday Morning... I feel so sorry for the girls in our group. Their toilet flooded during the night and everything (gifts included) got soaked. That said, my rucsac was soaked through in the boot of the bus on last nights journey and ALL my clothes now have water stains.

We spent at least two hours last night trying to find a hotel...just like Mary and Joseph...but in larger numbers. It is not easy with 14 people but we finally checked into Casa Blanca.

This hotel is possibly marginally cleaner than Hostería Arco Iris where my bed was crawling in bugs. My legs and arms are raw with bites and last night was another picnic for the insects.

When I return to the room after talking with the girls I find that our toilet has also flooded. Everyone is now moaning but no-one is willing to accept that we should have stayed in San Lorenzo, in the clean hotel of the black community. This is a wonderful trip and I continue to learn so much about my fellow man. The element within our group who wanted their beach holiday now have it, and still they are dis-satisfied.

I am really amazed by the arrogance of some Westerners who come here to the 3rd world and expect first world treatment. You should be willing to accept the rough with the smooth in a developing nation...otherwise don´t come!...this is not hometown USA.

This morning Carmen and I hire a ricshaw to take us around the town. We visit all areas of Atacames including the church of Santa Rosa De Lima. We visit two schools and attend a PE lesson. At Escuela Atacames we not only visit the school but we collect Nicolo and Morollely the niece and daughter of our driver Orle.

This is what I came to see, the real country!

Messages from Home...

Have been impressed by the latest additions to the blog - and was shocked when I actually read the whole of your itinerary and realised just how extensive your travels will be. I think you may find it difficult to re-adjust after your trip home at Christmas - but what sensational experiences! Wearing, not a 'holiday' at all, but such a great thing to do. Don't think you will ever regret it.
Anne, Joanie, Pat et al are coming for a ladies' lunch on Wednesday - we'll raise a glass to you!
Love, Jan

Hi William,
I am so glad to hear that all is working out well.
It sounds as if you are having the time of your life.
I think about you often and often wonder how you are.

The big day is approaching and I am getting excited - Simon is too. All is great and I went for a fitting yesterday and it looked beautiful - I only wish you were there!!!! I will save pictures for you.

So, where are you now? - it sounds from your blog that you definitely got a warm and impressive welcome - Annabel's would be proud!!

Miss you lots - mum and dad say hi
Love you
Francesca

Otavalo. Saturday & Sunday 19th & 20th August 2006.

This morning we left the Hacienda and headed for Otavalo and the giant Saturday market. After a bite of lunch at the Buena Vista restaurant (which afforded us a complete view over the main market square), it was time to start bargaining for local handicrafts. The most unusual thing that I purchased was a ring made from the nut of the Tagua, or Palm, Tree.

In the afternoon both Anne Kathrin and I headed to the Convento El Jordán to visit the church. We then explored the area around the town square.

This evening we dined as a group at Pizzeria Siciliana being entertained by local otavaleños musicians before heading to La Jampa to dance into the small hours.

SUNDAY...This is a very religious country and as I lay in bed this morning I can hear the singing from 6am mass at the church in the town square as it spills out into the street.

Carmen and I went to the local bakery for breakfast and there were a group of kids raiding the bin for scraps to eat...so we took them inside the bakery with us and fed them. What was amasing was that the total cost was merely $3, yet for the lack of so little these children go hungry day after day.

It was an early start this morning as we headed first to Peguche to learn about the threats too many of the traditions of the indigenous people as the result of the younger generations lack of interest. We learnt that as the communities become more open, and more Western, the young are losing interest in their traditions as they are exposed to the lifestyles and opportunities of others around the globe.

This raises the question of globalisation of our society and the homogenisation of cultures. Again, I am made aware of why there is a worldwide anti-American feeling as indigenous cultures around the world succumb to the culture of the world´s global economic Emporer. Rightly or wrongly people are reacting to what they see as the bastardisation of their culture by a homogenous American identity. There are, of course, advantages in such globalisation...however there are also disadvantages.

We learn that the tradition within tribal communities in this locality is to marry between age 13 and age 18, and subsequently begin your own family. There are obviously population issues in relation to development...In the 21st century medical care is such that the need for an heir and a spare is negated, yet families are still as large...Divorce, a topic which was taboo until very recently within tribal communities is becoming increasingly common as the opening up of the communities has meant that the young are more aware of a larger shop window of choice that is not necessarily bringing social stability in its wake...The young are still marrying at an early age and having their families, but increasingly they are divorcing by 30 and having at least one second family. Family breakdown is now a major issue within tribes that are based on close-knit family identity.

We head on to the picturesque town of Cotacachi where I attend Sunday Mass at El Sagrario with a congregation almost exclusively indigenous in its make up. Lunch is at La Marqueza before we head on to the lagoon in Cuicocha Volcano where we enjoy a sail and take in the breathtaking scenery.

Ecuador is proving to be a beautiful country, the same I cannot say of its people. I have travelled the globe and never have I come across such a basically rude group of people as Ecuadorians. On an individual basis I have found them to be welcoming and I have enjoyed their company. On a collective basis, I have found them to be cold and generally unfriendly.

What really annoys me is that people seem to assume that they can just rip you off. When I go to pay for the internet time the woman claims she has no change and so I have to pay extra...she doesn't just knock the few pennies off...I can pay more, but if I was short a few pennies I am sure that they would not be as accommodating as they expect me to be!

This evening I dine on what can only be described as the most genuinely disgusting meal I have ever eaten at Restaurant Mi Otavalito...cold food, blood raw steak...it is awful.

Deep into Ecuador

Monday Morning, August 14th 2006...This morning we descend into the Amazon Jungle region. The scenery as we travel has been stunning as waterfall after waterfall tumbles down the mountainside. This scenery is to dramatically change as we leave the mountain area and descend into the lush, tropical rainforest region.

I am however as interested in the people on the bus as in the scenery opening up around me. This local bus is quite a scene. A giant wide screen TV (still in its box) sits perched behind the driver and people get packed in like sardines. On the roof alongside all our luggage there is a full size fridge. This ramshackle scene crosses over precarious bridges as I journey deeper into Ecuador.

For me each day is the opening of a new horizon, and yet I am acutely aware that to the locals who make these journeys, their poverty means that their horizons can only ever extend as far as tomorrow.

On the journey down into Tena it gets very warm. When we left Papallacta this morning it was very cold.

At times the bus seems only just to cling to the road...there can be no laws about the total number of passengers and the closer we get to Tena the busier the bus gets...some air would be a novelty! The old man beside me has wet the seat (and my left leg) and to my right I am closed in by a rather large back-side...the rest of our group are at the back of the bus, but as the last one on I am getting to enjoy the local atmosphere.

As we make our way over the mountain passes you are aware that one wrong turn means adiós. At one corner there are two tombstones marking the unfortunate end of some previous travellers over this high Andean pass...we actually pass such monuments with a regularity that is all too frequent.

In Tena we explore the town and picnic by the river. I create great hilarity in the group when my trousers split as I climb up into the pick-up truck that is to take us into the jungle.

In the 16th Century the Spainard Francisco de Orellana ventured from Quito into the eastern jungle, in search of El Dorado...the mythical stash of Inca gold said to be hidden away in the jungle. He did not find gold, but he did discover Ecuador´s Rio Napo, which along with Peru´s Marañón, combines to form the Amazon. He followed the Napo into the Amazon mainstream and travelled all the way through the dense jungle to the Atlantic Ocean on Brazil´s coast.

We are staying with a Quichua family both enjoying their wonderful hospitality and experiencing jungle life first hand. One of the first things I notice is that it gets dark very quickly...there is almost no period between day-light and deep darkness. When it gets dark here it is genuinely pitch black. During our traditional Ecuadorian meal of locally caught Tilipia (fish), we are told that all the turmites crawling across the table to the light (i.e. the candles) are a signal that there will be rain tonight...and sure enough...there is a spectacular thunder and lightening storm.

The native family have made us most welcome on this our first night in the jungle and I really enjoy the rapport. With no electricity you have to make your own entertainment and papa treats us to a traditional folk tale...just as was traditional the world over, this is a long tale with a moral meaning.

On our second evening with the family we were treated to a description of a traditional wedding scene and enlightened as to the roles within the family. Women, in many ways, are still treated like domestic slaves and the traditional roles where the man provides and the woman provides for the man remain the norm. We learned some traditional dances on the Tuesday evening and we smoked a homemade and hand-rolled cigar from Papa's own tobacco plant.

It is amazing to be sleeping here in open huts (that are on stilts to make it harder for snakes etc to get in) with only a mosquito net between you and the elements. It gets very cold during the night, and talk about rustic, the toilet and shower are just as open to both the elements and each other...so make sure that you sing in the shower (well its actually just cold water from a pipe).

It is very humid in the jungle and the first thing I notice on Tuesday morning is that all my paper is damp. After breakfast of Granadilla (passion fruit) and Majada (mashed plantain, cheese and egg), I am painted this morning as the Man of the River for our hike along jungle trails to the Jatunyacu River, and let me tell you I have never been so happy to see a jungle hut as I was to get home after the heat and the hike. Our lunch is a traditional soup followed by chicken, vegetables and rice and then pineapple. Even our drinks are fresh jungle produce being the juice of the various fruits growing around us...you eat very well and healthily in the jungle.

Carmen gives me a haircut in the family lodge after lunch...and if you are ever in the jungle I suggest that you get your haircut at Carmens'...she does a great job!

When it rains in the jungle it really rains and after the showers we head off on a medicinal hike. Papa (Delfin Estela) is a Ayahuasca, or traditional medicine man.

I am not doing so well in the jungle with my belongings. Yesterday I put my foot through the ass of my trousers and from today Stonehenge will always be a part of the jungle as my necklace and I parted company on our hike. This afternoon my Guardian Angel gave notice that she wanted to stay in the jungle to protect all travellers and she parted company with my back-pack.

Ecuador´s Amazon is home to a wide variety of mammmals like the armadillo, the honey bear, the sloth, over 60 varieties of bat, tapirs, peccaries, the jaguar, monkeys and manatees to name just a few. Birds make up the richest group of vertebrates with approximately 1000 species. There are also over 500 species of tree per acre that have been recorded in the jungles of the upper Amazon (a concentration ten times greater than that in Europe and North America).

On our hike I am amazed at the knowledge that Papa has about each plant and its medical uses. I am witnessing first hand the realities of living in harmony with nature. Papa explains that when you take something from a plant, e.g. bark from the tree, that you must meditate infront of the plant to say thank-you...the plant is after all another living organism.

Living with the family raises as many questions as it answers. For example, should we be engaged in this kind of tourism? Are we exploiting the local people in the way our ancestors did?...the family certainly make you feel like the big white chief.

The other side of the coin however is that without the tourism dollars local economies would collapse, but I do feel a bit like a rich Westerner exploiting the locals.

Listen to the rythmn of the pouring rain...but there are no window panes. The heavy rainfall this Wednesday morning creates a true rainforest atmosphere. The cloud forest has come lower to meet and greet us and the rain drops are the biggest I have ever seen. The forest looks so mysterious today blanketing its secrets in cloud.

Today will be unusual as we are guided through the forest by our 7-year-old guide Nairon. Our hike will take us to view the Napo river from atop a cliff. I also get to have a facial in the Amazon with local mud drawn straight from the river bank.

We are to move this afternoon to the Shangrila Jungle Lodge on the Anzu River. I am finding it interesting travelling with a range of nationalities where the realities of the racial stereotype are beginning to show in us all.

My journey today only heightens the unfinished feel I get about Ecuador. Roads just seem to end and then re-start later with no reason or indeed warning! So many homes are half-built...it all seems so disjointed.

At the jungle lodge we have such luxuries as infrequent electricity. Nancy has just walked into my room with the phrase 'we don't have light?'. Her face is a picture when he realises that she is in the wrong room.

This evening we are treated to a night of traditional dance and Canelaso (a local drink that is true fire water).

At breakfast on Thursday morning I feel sick, and sure enough my 'Dehli Belly' is back. This is the morning that we will descend deep into a jungle canyon. It is to prove an awesome climb. Our guide Josè leads us to the jungle floor and we trek through genuine Indiana Jones territory.

It is now clear to me why guerilla wars last an eternity on this continent. If you have a knowledge of this territory it could camouflage you for life.

The trek is a treat and would simply not be possible in the litigious cultures that exist in either the States of Europe. The jungle is precarious at best and arguably dangerous. In a country of so much sizemic activity it would only have taken a tremour to trigger a landslide that would bring any of the overhangs down into the canyons and on top of us.

We don't carry any first aid kit (just Josè and his huge machete). I would not even know where to begin completing a risk assessment for this trip.

Whilst Shangrila Lodge is the jungle for the tourist, this mornings' trek is true jungle life. We wade through waters, we shimmy along canyon walls, we climb up through a waterfall (this is possibly the most exciting climb I have ever done...no helmets, no ropes...just your body, your wellies and the natural grips Pachu Mama provides. Just don't look down, or too far ahead, because this is quite a climb!).

Josè takes us deep into bat caves (so glad I had my rabies injections) where the bats fly wildly around us now that they have been disturbed. He awakens various poisonous spiders with his machete and as they crawl out to greet us I get up close and personal...but never touch!

It is impossible to describe the flora, fauna and wildlife we experience. My personal favourite is the Pambil or Planta Caminante or Walking Tree, with its legs splayed.

We are really lucky to stumble across one snake in the midst of consuming another smaller snake. We learn that the poisonous snakes in this area will have triangular heads whilst the snakes with rounded heads are not so dangerous. No photograph or second hand tale can really describe this wonder of Mother Nature. In an ideal world we would all get to see Pachu Mama in her naked splendour...then, just maybe, we might begin to think about our relationship with our environment.

When the rain comes in the jungle, by god does it come. You simply cannot see anything in front of you in this blanket of fast and furious water.

Today, Friday, we are due to head from the jungle to Baños and on to Cuenca but the roads are closed due to the eruption of Tungurahua. Ecuador is home to 71 volcanoes of which 21 are active. The country is home to 40% of the most active volcanoes in the world, 8 of which are in the Galapagos (or Fire) Islands.

We hear that the recent activity in Baños has caused deaths and so instead we are to head now to Cayambe.

On our journey we are stopped by the police with GEMA on their uniforms. We all have to get off the bus to be searched for drugs. I learn that the GEMA unit of the police are the drugs squad chraged essentially with looking for Columbians trafficing through Ecuador.

Being on a guided tour feels a lot like being at boarding school...but for adults. You have to share rooms (and mixing personalities does not always work) and you are herded here and there.

I don't feel that I like Ecuador that much. Maybe I am uneasy with the poverty we have seen outside of Quito? Yet I have travelled the world and spent time in 3rd world countries and never have I felt so uneasy.

I do though like the natural scenery as we journey around. As we headed South the streets became more of a dust bowl due to the dry nature of the climate. The poor areas began to appear dirtier than before (reminiscent of China), yet unlike China I just have a feeling that I am glad I have seen this country but it won't be on my list to return.

This drive we are currently on is initially heading back toward Quito and the farmland the further North we go reminds me somewhat of the UK.

In Cayambe we are to stay at the second oldest Hacienda in Ecuador, the Hacienda Guachalá from 1585. It is like something from a Zorro movie.

The Hacienda church contains a wealth of history and I am fascinated by the very large pots traditionally used for burial. The corpse would be placed in the foetal position to be returned to Pachu Mama and just as in ancient China the wife of a deceased Chief would be buried alive with his corpse.

Cayambe is home to the only volcano in the Americas to be crossed by the Equator line.

This Project just Grows and Grows!

Dear Will,

On a personal level:

As I write, Saturday afternoon, you must be venturing into the countryside of Ecuador, a country you will know far better as a Brit than I will ever know as a South American. This is probably one of the many paradoxes that this project will most certainly reveal as it gradually progresses... your blog is also getting more exciting with the comments made by the students you have met. It is nice to hear from you and that you are having such a great time while sharing your views and adventures with the rest of "us" - "us" is, little by little, becoming a larger community everyday! I look forward to seeing the photographs when you finally manage to upload them!

On a professional level:

I have been visiting branches of Cultura Inglesa, inviting other teachers to look into the project's site and your blog, actually showing them what you write and how to contact you via the website.

All the best!
Cuca

Quito to Papallacta Hot Springs. Sunday 13th August 2006.

This morning I am taking it easy, chilling out at my hotel and reading my book. We are scheduled to leave for Papallacta Hot Springs at around 1 O'clock.

Our journey by local bus takes us up through the heights of the Andes en route to the Amazon. The bus station in Quito is a colourfully chaotic place where child labour laws have yet to have an impact. There are children, and adults, clambouring along bus roofs and loading luggage...they are still clinging to buses and loading and unloading as the buses make off on their journey.

On our journey we are subjected to stereotypical latino music and a very poor quality soap opera of a movie. I am travelling with a like-minded group of individuals...teachers, lawyers, scientists...and all are taking notes as we journey along.

Climbing through the mountain valleys the peeks are reminiscent of the Trossachs. It gets colder as we climb...and Andrea advises you all never to travel on the back seat. It is very bumpy on the dirt mountain road into Papallacta...or there is always the quick route down the side of the mountain.

Papallacta is a village that sits some 37 miles south east of Quito, over the Andes and on the outer rim of the Amazon Basin. This small village is surrounded by cloud forest and it lies on the road between the Highlands and the Oriente. It is claimed that Papallacta has the best thermal springs in Ecudaor and we jump into the back of an old Ford pick-up for our journey up to the springs.

What fascinates me when we get to Papallacta is that there are guards on the gates. Once inside there can be no doubt that this resort is designed for the tourist, and I realise that the guards may be representative of local unhappiness at the excess of Western tourism?

Tonight I am very tired. I am sure that this is due in part to the altitude, at 3330 metres above sea level. Generally in Quito the altitude seemed not to affect me that much. Quito is the worlds second highest capital city at some 2850 metres above sea level. I am also suffering from my first upset stomach, despite being generally careful with my diet.

In my tour group I have met two British girls. Caroline is from Kingston and so she is a near neighbour of mine in Surrey and Andrea is from Leeds. Caroline is also the second person I have met from Kingston in the last two weeks.

We dine this evening at the resort and after time in the hot springs we end our evening in the bar.

A lesson we are to learn the next morning is don't charge to your room as they try to charge again and again for the same drinks...pay cash!

Quito, Ecuador. Saturday 12th August 2006.

This morning I decide to try another method of transport. Today is the day that I have set aside to go to the Equator.

22 Kilometres north of Quito lies Mitad Del Mundo where you can go and stand simultaneously in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

I have set about doing some investigations and decide that I will hire my own personal driver for this trip. I do not wish to join a pre-packaged tour and I know that I will not get a fair deal from the cities taxi drivers.

I settle on Israel Espinosa and he is an excellent choice. We go out to Mitad Del Mundo and also to Pululahua and back to Quito all for $30. I, of course, pay for him to join me inside the park at Mitad Del Mundo and also in the various museums.

A good pointer for the traveller... I have not only my own driver, but also a secure place to leave my valuables (in the trunk of the car). Today I am moving to my G.A.P. Adventures hotel and so I am carrying all my possessions. I would be an easy target...but with the car, I only have to carry what I need.

As we get nearer to Mitad Del Mundo I enjoy the spectacle of the myriad of hawkers plying their wares for the tourist trade.

I have left early in the morning as this area is a haven both for tourists, and locals at the weekend; by midday it will be like Piccadilly Circus!

I have specifically chosen to wear my "Flying Scotsman" T-shirt today...a more appropriate choice I could not have made.

Driving along in the passenger seat Israel plays me "traditional" Ecuadorian Salsa music and shows me how to Salsa whilst seated. Our conversation is a wonderful mix of Spanish and English (but we understand each other).

I have that wonderful 'local' feeling, as I am not in a tourist taxi. I love the sights we pass, particularly the guy selling oranges from the back of his pick-up...but I must say they use a lot of brushes here in Ecuador, because every town seems to have a plethora of brush salesmen walking the streets.

At Mitad Del Mundo I get to place my feet firmly in both camps. It is amazing to think that the two halves of your body are in separate hemispheres. The Ethnographic Museum at the Equator Monument where the latitude is zero degrees is well worth the visit. You can climb the 30 metre height and take in the views such as Cotopaxi (the highest active volcano in the world). The current monument replaces the earlier structure of 1936 and was itself erected in 1979. The view up here on this clear day is breath-taking.

There are wonderful exhibits explaining the culture and geography of Ecuador. For example, you learn that the jungle areas main economy is based around eco-tourism and the planting of both tea and wood. Controversially there is also the issue of oil exploration.

The Highlands region is the base of agriculture, hydro-electric power, traditional handi-crafts, textiles and flower growing. Did you know that Ecuador exports roses to the Netherlands for example?

Ecuador is a base for the production of goods ranging from coco, sugar-cane and rice to bananas, fishing and oil.

The equator is a great place for experimentation. For example, water goes straight down the plug hole...it does not turn to either the left or the right. Also you can stand an egg on the head of a nail and it will balance freely.

I am really proud to say that my official photography sponsor POLAROID can be seen here at the Equator doing their bit for our environment. Not only have they very kindly sponsored this global education project aimed at bringing young people together through a greater understanding of our world...but they even provide the trash cans here at Mitad Del Mundo, and boy are they needed...

If there is one thing that really bugs me it is environmental vandalism and I am appalled at the bus of Western tourists who throw empty plastic bottles from their bus window as they pass slowly by.

The ancient volcanic crater of Pululahua lies some 5km north of Mitad Del Mundo. 60 families actually live in the crater (which is still active) due to the fertile soil to be found there.

Back in Quito I dine at Este Café in the Mariscal area, on Mexican food (the Grande Quesadilla) and Peruvian alcohol (the Pisco Sour).

This afternoon I join my travel sponsor G.A.P. Adventures and head tomorrow afternoon for Papallacta Hot Springs.

Checked into the hotel I meet my 'bunk buddy'...not really a room mate as we won't always have a room. Wayne is an American dude, the same age as me and a computer programmer from San Francisco...although he is originally from Pennsylvania...not far from my 'home' in Western New York and so we already have a bit in common. We spend the late afternoon over a beer or two, before it is time to meet our tour group.

It is all a bit like Agatha Christie. There is Wayne, of course, and myself and a young Australian couple. Matt is completing his PhD in the area of water purity. The rest of the group have been delayed because of the flight chaos ensuing as a result of the terrorist threat...so I will need to wait until tomorrow for the true 'Death on the Nile' experience.

Tonight I intend to enjoy the party atmosphere of Quito and Wayne and I head out to dine at La Crêperie in the Mariscal.

The Beauty of this Project

----- Original Message ----
From: Cultura Inglesa SP friday group
To: esubuildingblocks@yahoo.co.uk
Sent: Friday, 11 August, 2006 12:58:07 PM
Subject: comments on your talk


Dear Mr. Glover,
We appreciated your talk on the 4 of August and would like to make some comments.
We read your blog and unfortunately we understood you sort of underestimated São Paulo.It was quite funny to read your comments about the way people dress in here and we would like to remind you there are some millionaires in the city , one of the five biggest in the world.
Apart from that we would kindly ask you more about your project because it was not exactly clear to us.
We would also like to offer help in anything related to São Paulo and our wildlife.
Hope to hear from you.
Lucas,André,Marina,Tatiana;Giovanna,Rafael,Luiz,Renato,Bruno,Victoria,Raquel,Paula,Ana Thereza.




Thank you all very much for your e-mail.

I hope that you do not think I have a negative view of Sao Paulo, quite the contrary. The reality is that I must speak as I find and there are many people in your wonderful city who have a negative view of just how fantastic a city it is.

My job is to make students aware about the places that I visit (the good and the bad) so that they then carry out some independent research about these places.

I am hoping that you will be interested in somewhere along my journey and that you will work toward improving your English both by reading my blog and by writing essays that may be chosen by the Cultura to represent Sao Paulo in the project book.

One of the key elements of the project is to provide links between schools and students across the globe and I hope that some of you may choose to begin e-mailing students in Great Britain once those schools return from holidays in September.

I have great difficulties with the fact that I do not have a computer, so please forgive me if you do not get a response quickly.

I head off into the countryside of Ecuador tomorrow and it will take all my time to upload the blog and the photographs. I hope that you will learn a great deal about our world from my journey and that all students participating learn that we are not so different after all. All peoples of the world have more in common than not and I hope through the links I build and the stories I can tell in the blog that we all come to understand one another a little better.

Please feel free to comment on any of the blog pages at any time. You just log on and click on comment and then the instructions will appear.

I look forward to our journey together and to seeing you all again in December in your wonderful city.

Best wishes to you all and thank you again for making me most welcome last week.

Will

Quito, Ecuador. Friday 11th August 2006.

Today is a new day and I am more than willing to give Quito another chance.

The staff in my hotel are a delight and I have greatly enjoyed my discussions with the two young ladies who operate the reception desk. They have been more than helpful and they personally feel responsible for any negative experiences that guests may have.

This wonderful family owned, and run, hotel is a must in Quito. It is very comfortable, very welcoming and very reasonably priced.

www.eugeniahotel.com

Today is an official holiday to celebrate Ecuadors´ independence day (which is actually August 10th).

I begin my day at the packed Cathedral for morning worship. The packed church, the robes of the clergy...this could be England in the 1950´s.

The altar of the cathedral is stunning, rich in gilt decoration. The Cathedral ceiling is a mirror of the ceiling I saw yesterday at the Monastery of San Francisco.

The congregation are praying to La Virgen de Quito.
The spectacle as it unfolds is most colourful with priests and nuns, monks and bishops as far as the eye can see. It is during this service that I attract my latest friend...a stray dog, who befriends me. He follows me into the Cathedral and all around outside. At least I might look like a local out exercising my pet?

Today was definitely the day to visit the Cathedral, as the procession gathers in the neighbouring Church (that I visited Wednesday).

The pageantry outside is a joy to behold. On García Moreno, the street fills with the smell of incense and the singing of hymns as the procession makes its way into the Cathedral from the Church of El Sagrario.

During the procession I play a game of cat and mouse with a local lady, who finally agrees to having her photograph taken.

I leave the people of Quito to their celebrations and make now for La Compañía. If there is an Aladdin's Cave in the world of churches...this is it. I thought I had seen gilt but this church is beyond words. Sadly, though correctly, photography is forbidden.

This church is beyond kitsch, it is simply stunning. The craftsmanship, the attention to detail and the love that must have gone into building it are beyond compare.

The sacristy is like none I have ever seen with its beautiful paintings and highly polished wood. In the main church the high altar is a marvel and the central dome of this church could grace any cathedral.

The description that comes to mind to represent this gilded palace are the Tsarist Palaces of St Petersburg. If there were ever a demonstration of the medieval wealth of the Church then this is it. Ignoring the negative connotations of that statement, this is also a triumphant demonstration of man's appreciation of the glory of God.

In this peaceful environment, it is difficult to accept the turmoil of our world today...but then possibly such a demonstration of colonial wealth is one of the roots of our present evils?

Guide books will tell you this is Quito´s most ornate church...they don´t do it justice.

La Compañía de Jesús was consacrated to St Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Order of the Company of Jesus...hence why the church is known as La Compañía.

Begun in 1605 (and still incomplete) the first service was conducted in 1613. The church is based on plans from the Gesú of Rome and building was directed by Napolitan Brother Marcos Guerra S.J.. The German Jesuit priest Leonardo Deubler initiated the construction of the stone facade in 1722, and this was completed in 1765 by the Italian Brother Venancio Gandolfi S.J..

This was the church where Mariana Paredes y Flores, a Quiteña, consecrated her life to Jesus Christ within the Jesuit spirituality. She made a public offering of her life for the salvation of Quito which had been afflicted by both epidemics and earthquakes. In 1950, Pope Pius XII canonised her, and her remains rest in the ornate high altar of this church.

In 1767, the 'Pragmatic Sanction' issued by King Charles III (of Spain), expelled the Jesuits from the Royal Audience of Quito.
La Compañía Church was abandoned and from 1807 until 1850 it was entrusted to the Camilo Friars. In 1860, President Gabriel García Moreno returned the church to the Jesuits. However, the 1868 earthquake destroyed the church tower (the tallest in Quito) and again in 1987 earthquake struck partially destroying the church. Fate was not kind when in 1996 during restoration works a serious fire affected several sections of the church...but the masterpiece (and it is such) has survived, I hope for eternity!

It is easy to see why this city is a world heritage site. Renovations are going on all around. It must, after all, be difficult to preserve such wonders amongst all the pollution (particularly from the buses).

I am having a much better day today in Quito and I must share with you the joy I get from sitting in the plazas, in the streets, on steps...and just writing about the world I see before me.

I decide to put Quito to the test and I head up Venezuela on foot to the cities unfinished Basílica. The residential area surrounding the Basílica is run down and you get the clear sense of social depravation. As I walk the belching fumes of the traffic are hard to ignore. São Paulo was polluted by the sheer volume of its traffic (the cars in general were relatively new). In Quito however I find pollution that would choke a horse...the old time cars may be beautiful, but boy do they pollute. They also know how to use their horns in this city, with everyone hooting constantly. If you think the French and Italians are nuts when it comes to driving...come experience South America.

Building at the Basílica began in 1926 and the sense is more abandoned than unfinished.

In this city of architectural gems, I find the Basílica to be a diamond. It has the most stunning stained glass windows, but yet it is basically abandoned. The building has row after row of empty side altars. The high altar has the sad appearance of a provincial church. This building is so inspirational to the writer...

It stands as a monument to the abandoned dreams of a forgotten generation. There are similarities with the Cathedral in São Paulo (both churches are of a similar era)...but this Basílica is an eerie symbol of unspoken dreams; of aspirations never achieved. It stands like a monument to the lives of the people living in this section of the city.

You have to be let in by a guard, and it seems that the Basílica is not on most tourists radar...Why?...It is one of the most romantic places I have ever been...it is a building speaking to you...a symbol of much more than depravation...it is a symbol of the way the heart of the world bleeds for the ignorance and materialistic symbolism of our society.

I had expected to find a plaza filled with tourists where I could dine. Instead the walls that guard the majesty of this building are strewn with graffiti...possibly a reflection of the abandonment our young people feel...how appropriate that the expression of such feelings find their outlet here at the monument to unfilled dreams.

Today has been great here in Quito and the only issue comes from a couple of locals outside the Basílica. I explain to them in no uncertain terms where to get off...my Mum always says I would fight with my own shadow...It´s true I know! I might appear to be a tourist on my own, but I am NO target!!!

I head off (by taxi) to Mirador de Guápulo to take in the spectacular views from the cliff-side out over the Sanctuary of Guápulo. From here I decide my next job is to investigate the Mariscal area. I walk around until my senses tell me that it is not safe.

Travel should not be a dangerous activity, but you need to be careful. Play by "the rules" and always have a get-out plan.

Across from the hospital in a small park I have noted the prostitutes plying their trade and the drunks littering the walkway. I have learned from being a South London boy, and in the many other big cities I know well around the globe to keep my wits about me. Turning on my heels, I head out of an atmosphere I don´t like and back down Veintimilla to the corner of Mera & Wilson and dine at El Español.

As I enjoy my sandwich and beer I watch one of the staff taking loving care cleaning his Chevette...It takes me back to my childhood when we had a wonderful Chevette (CGD 565 X) in bright orange with brown tartan seats. You see so many Chevette´s here.

I decide late in the evening that a Friday night in Quito is the time to test the safety of the Mariscal area. I dine at Siam, where I enjoy wonderful Ecuadorian seafood with a Thai twist. And Gail (I didn´t have to peel the prawns...what a novelty!).

The reality is that this could be Kuta or any other backpacker's paradise. The shacks look the same and the venue is one of teenagers on a rite of passage. The reality is that Quito at night is no less safe than any big city, the problems are the same teenagers with too much alcohol who then find themselves in trouble.

A question that must be posed in this homogenous world of backpackers is how much we in the West are responsible for the bastardisation of local cultures and economies? The advent of the backpacker and the Western ideal of finding oneself stands in contrast to the organic growth of indigenous society.

Quito, Ecuador. Thursday 10th August 2006

Let me start with the positives.

Quito is the capital of Ecuador and sits high in an Andean Valley some 2850 metres above sea level.

As you will discover this is about all I can say in the positive about my experience of Ecuador thus far.

Take everything that you have heard negative about Latin America and multiply it...then you are approaching Quito.

I am glad I have come though because there is no doubt that the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site of Quito Old Town is well worth the visit. You could spend your time constantly photographing picturesque Colonial buildings, rich in colour and history...but watch out for the cities all too frequent uncovered drains.

However, as for the people. I am finding Quito to be possibly the most unfriendly place I have visited in the world (and I have been all over the world) and it is also very unsafe. Popular myth would have you believe that this innocent little country is a safe haven for tourists...NOT so!

Let me take you through my day...

At breakfast at my, very nice and friendly hotel, I head into the office to set up the day for the website.

Jumping in a taxi I head for the Plaza San Francisco. Everyone in this city wants to do business and yet again the taxi driver is all too ready with his number to call him for a tour...pity he is not so ready with my change as he makes off without giving it to me. This is now the third time in the past two days that I have been "ripped off"...you can have your fill of local colour!

The Monastery of San Francisco is well worth the visit. It has a wonderfully weather beaten feel to it. That said it is the cities oldest church being constructed between 1534 & 1604. The icons and gilt may be weather beaten, but they remain exceptionally beautiful...and this is the first time I have seen a statue of Jesus with dreadlocks.

Every square inch of this beautiful monastic church is covered with paintings, statues, frescos and icons of all descriptions. The stunning baroque altar is a marvel to behold.

The Monastery of San Francisco is the largest colonial structure in Quito and houses the Museo Franciscano which I would recommend to each and every visitor.

www.museofranciscano.com

www.museofranciscanoquito.com

I spend hours in what is arguably the best museum in the world for work of the Quiteña School of sculpture.

The Quiteña School is renowned for the naturalistic features of the work. One of the earliest examples of the school is El Abrazo De La Paz, a representation of St Francis of Assisi welcoming Jesus. St Francis is modelled standing atop a bible in recognition of the belief that the more you read your bible the closer you get to God.

Paintings such as Bautiza A Los Indígenas are reflective of the early baptisms of indigenous peoples carried out in Quito by Fray Jodoco Rique (on the establishment of the monastery). The fountain in this painting can still be seen in the museum courtyard.

A highlight of the museum are the Illuminated Choral Books in Latin of Gregorian Chants. These books were made by the indigenous peoples from leather which was sun-dried to make it like paper. The leather was then painted with natural pigment.

One of the most important sculptors represented is Padre Carlos. His 17th Century work is significant mainly because of his knowledge of anatomy. His sculptures contain teeth and veins and amongst the Holy Week sculptures on display, the statue of St Peter takes as its base a human skull (from a woman).

Another important 17th Century artist on display is Miguel de Santiago who represents the landscapes of Ecudaor in all his religious paintings.

Particularly unusual are the works of the Alabaster School where the paintings are made by repeatedly applying natural pigment to the marble until it penetrates and forms the image.

Another outstanding work is Hermano De Leche De Jesús which is a representation of the love of Santo Domingo De Guzmán for the blessed virgin...it was after all, St Dominic who created the Rosary.

The museum also contains several important works of the Cuencana School. The key difference between the Quiteña School (where Jesus crucified has his feet crosssed and pierced with one nail) and the Cuencana School (where Jesus crucified has his feet seperate and pierced with two nails) is that the former is influenced by Italy and the latter by Spain.

Moving out into the courtyard I am invited to taste the arrayan plant (which fills the Courtyard as box hedging). This plant is used by indigenous people to make both liquer and toothpaste.

The monastery is built with stone from Volcán Pichincha which also provides its mountain backdrop. On the upper level of the courtyard the acoustics are fantastic and provide a whispering gallery (just like St Paul´s in London...but with a better acoustic).

Entering the church balcony from the monastery I am able to view the current mass and I get a stunning view of the altar centrepiece, the Virgin of Quito.

The ceiling above the balcony contains 4,600 seperate pieces of wood and all are held together only by pressure, no adhesive has ever been applied. The ceiling is of Moorish influence and shows the constilation of the stars. As you know the Moors saw God represented in geometric form and produced stunning works to represent God in this way.

This museum has got to be about the best value museum in the world at $2 with your own private guide. I would have easily paid ten times that and felt I had value for money.

On to the Plaza Santo Domingo with its church (built between 1581 & 1650). The church is stunning, yet again and I have no doubt that you will find all the many churches in this city a work of art. You could spend months, if not years studying the churches of Quito and always find new marvels.

Santo Domingo is undergoing badly needed restoration work and although the Gothic Altar is not currently in use, you will be 'blinded by gilt' as you turn to the side chapel (where a mass is currently being said).

The church itself is a mini labyrinth of small side chapels and as I wander I listen to the beautiful hymn singing of the mass. Only after taking a few photos (and with one left to get) I was informed Prohibido Tomar Fotos(you cannot take photos)...this is where being foreign and No Hablo Español comes in handy...the photos are not great but I hope they give you a sense of the Church and the ongoing restoration.

From here I make my way to dine at Tianguez...my advice DON´T. No matter what the guide book says, the food is over-priced, the staff are arrogant to the point of being not only rude but openly hostile to the customers, as the lady at the next table found when her bag was stolen.

I had not long sat down when a very smart looking middle-aged local man came and sat at the table behind me. A group of three ladies were across from me. Without any of us noticing, the next thing we knew he was off with her handbag. Two of the ladies gave chase and the other lady and I attracted the attention of a policeman (yards from where we were). He simply could not have cared less.

In terms of the restaurant. Half an hour wait to be served, and it was not busy. I stayed because the girls in the office recommended it. The food was of very poor quality and service...what service?

I have been in Ecuador two days. On three occasions the locals have tried to rip me off. My welcome to the country was when my flight landed and the Ecuadorian gentleman behind me proceeded to hit me on the head with his suitcase...no apology. I am told that the Mariscal tourist area is unsafe at night and from what I have seen this is true.

Come to Quito for the Culture yes, but not for these arrogant people who hide behind a veneer of pleasantry.

For about the first time in my life travelling, I can´t wait to leave a place. The staff in the office tell me that the picture I paint is generally true and that the authorities are doing their best to improve the tourist picture...they better get a move on.

I for one have a few places I want to see in the next two days and then I am hoping that the countryside of this country (where I will spend the next month) is a much more positive experience.

Topping off the day...my taxi driver decides he will take me on a magical mystery tour from the Old to New towns. My in-built sense of navigation tells me this is wrong and I am to be proved correct.

He then attempts to get me to pay for this exploitation.

It is sad that I am learning very quickly how to argue in Spanish and not how to say very positive things.

After winning the debate I go into the hotel. I don´t like the vibe of this city at all, so tonight I am going to venture only to the Burger King next door...not very cultural but hey!

Quito, Ecuador. Wednesday August 9th 2006

Technology is wonderful. I seem to be spending an inordinate amount of time trying to upload photographs etc for my students to access. It is really difficult conducting this project without a computer, but it is also great fun.

It is a lovely morning here in Quito...I await the day´s adventure.

After breakfast at my hotel...and I would recommend it to anyone. It is the Eugenia Hotel and it is not only comfortable, it is very friendly and has a family atmosphere; I hit the road. Quito feels truly South American set amongst spectacular mountains.

I believe that the only way you can get to know anywhere is to meet the locals. Not for me the closeted atmosphere of the taxi...it's time to hit the streets, get lost, meet the locals and see life.

I finally find my way to the offices of G.A.P. Adventures (my sponsor tour company) and I am made most welcome.

After introductions and some work on the website, I am off to explore Quito. Outside in the street I hail a taxi and ask the driver to take me to the Plaza Grande. On our way from the New into the Old Town we pass a pro-Israel demonstration with only two or three dissenting voices also protesting.

The driver suggests that we "vamos Panecillo". I have never heard of Panecillo but he assures me that we should "Vamos Panecillo amirar bonito. Piden apoyo paz"...which roughly translated means..."let´s go to Panecillo to look, it´s very pretty. You need some peace".

I decide to take my chances. What´s life if its not an adventure and he seems trustworthy enough...so we head off up into the hills. It is an experience and the area feels truly South American with colourful, well kept and dilapidated houses around us. There are lots of old style US cars and I even get to see my first hearse drive past playing loud rap music as the driver grooves along.

I discover (from my pigeon Spanish) as we make our way through the Tunel de San Juan and then the Tunel de San Roque and then the Tunel de San Diego, that my driver´s name is Pabien.

You really need to have faith in people and wandering off into the hills that surround this city in the valley; the cars, the people, the walls and even the sofas for sale in the street are colourful. Police blowing whistles or directing traffic in face masks (to protect against the pollution...you simply cannot paint a picture of such colourful chaos).

It is a bumpy drive up El Panecillo, the hill is known as the little bread loaf. As we climb you get to see just how large this city is as it climbs up into the surrounding mountains. La Virgen de Quito was inaugurated in 1975 and it has a halo of 2.6 metres in diameter.

From El Panecillo you can see the Museo Libertad Heroes Batalla Pichincha which also commands great views. However it is only open on February 27th.

I discover on returning to the office that I did the right thing getting a taxi up to the statue. You can walk up the steps from the García Moreno, but I am told this is a hot spot for robbing tourists...That said, I am also informed that my return trip should have cost $10 and not the $30 I was charged.

This is precisely the lesson I was giving on Monday night in my business lecture.
Do your research...in this case I left something to chance.

Now in the Plaza De La Independencia (or Plaza Grande to the locals) I set about exploring the Church of El Sagrario. This highly ornate building is rich in gilt with the most beautiful dome that cannot help but inspire.

As I sit in this church I enjoy the reciting of the Rosary and the most beautiful of hymn singing.

In the square they are preparing for a symphony tonight and so I make my way to the Palacio del Gobierno (the beautiful Presidential Palace)...it is a shame that its opposite number across the square (the municipal offices) is such an ugly building...although softened by the white wash.

The former Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop´s Palace) is now restaurants and retail outlets.

I eat in a covered courtyard inside this palace at Cafê Del Fraile and try Ecuador´s version of the Caipiriña.

My second brush with con-men comes here. The waiter attempts to fiddle the bill. Maybe he assumes I don´t understand dollars (I lived and worked in the USA). Maybe he thinks after a Caipiriña I am drunk...or maybe he is just chancing his luck.

He pretends not to understand my complaint. I stand my ground. One thing for sure, my brain is an instant calculator...ask any students from my Maths class (isn´t that true Emily & Co). Eventually he agrees in perfect English that he has made a mistake...but only after I write down all the figures and threaten to call in the police.

One thing of note today is that there are icons everywhere. On walls and in doorways etc.

After walking around so much today my feet are blistered...a night on the computer me thinks!

As I work late into the evening on the computer, a rather rude American gentleman makes so much noise around me to show that he wants to access this computer that I offer to let him use some of my time. The only thing I ask is that he does not close my files...the first thing he does, of course, is to close my files!

Brazil to Ecuador. Tuesday 8th August 2006

A reminder to all student participants that you can access my photo diary by simply clicking on the individual blog headings. As soon as I get the photographs uploaded they are available for viewing.

Will

********************

Going across São Paulo this morning by taxi was a surreal experience. It was 3.45am and as I was leaving the hotel, some people were just returning from a supper, and I can well understand why. If their hosts were only half as welcoming and stimulating as mine then supper could go on all night.

I feel as I travel across the city like someone in a music video. It is dark and atmospheric and the city has its own beauty at this time of morning.

I fly to Quito via Lima. It is amazing to realise that I could have flown from London to New York in less time than this 'short hop' within this vast continent. My first sight of the Andes comes from 37,000ft and what a view. Approaching Lima I am made aware of the famous the garua which is the mist that settles over the city between May and October.

Tonight I begin my Ecuador experience in earnest. I am dining at the world famous Mama Clorinda, which like everywhere "world famous"...it is getting more and more expensive as the number of visitors to Quito increases.

Immersing myself in local colour I want to eat only local food. My meal begins with a Vaso de Chicha de Morocho (a cold drink made from corn). It is surprisingly tasty (although an acquired taste). My first course is Locro de Queso ( a soup made with potato and cheese and served with avacado). This is very good and reminds of the fact that all across the globe people traditionally ate filling dishes of freely available local produce in the days before we had the wealth to be fussy...in this case a meal in a bowl.

I had to do it and so my main course is a half Cuy (Guinea Pig). It comes breaded with potato, avacado, tomato, lettuce and peanut sauce, and I wash it down with a Chimborazo Cooler of ice, ecuadorian liqueur, sparkling water, whisky and lemon juice.

Of all the foods I have eaten across the globe, I must say I don´t like Cuy...but don´t let that put you off.

We are serenaded by a guitar player that looks like Zorro and my day ends with a cab ride in a taxi with a driver who does not know where my hotel is. Unlike London though he apologises and only charges $2 for my magical mystery tour.

São Paulo. Brazil. Monday August 7th 2006

It is a rather strange morning this morning.

I have been advised to stay in my hotel as I am told that "the bandits are attacking the City, just like last month".

I cannot tell you if this is true. I saw no sign of such unacceptable behaviour last night or indeed this morning when I have been out and about since before 7am.

Outside in the street life seems normal and people are going about their business. There is no sense of panic. I will continue with work on my website and wait to see what happens. If groups are attempting to terrorise this City, I am sure from what I have seen they will not succeed.

São Paulo is a welcoming city of strong communities and I am looking forward to visiting schools and addressing a group of Buisnessmen and women this evening.

**********

As is often the case in life, people like to make more of an issue than is the reality. There was simply some minor localised trouble somewhere in São Paulo...but people love to blow it out of proportion...so back to reality...

This morning I travel across town to a residential district to speak to students at the
Colégio CEB (Centro Educacional Brandão). Again the students are wonderful. I have a full tour of the school, I learn from the staff about the educational philosophy and I get to interact with a great bunch of young people who grow in confidence as our time goes on.

And as for school lunch...all I will say is that we have a lot to learn in our school catering in the UK.

This is one factor you have to note about São Paulo. Not only can you eat from any cuisine in the world but the food is of an exceptionally high quality.

Tonight I deliver my final lecture of this segment of the project to a packed venue of business people at The Club. I am talking about the Role of English in Business, Cultural Awareness and the Nuances of Language in the context of business theory.

Again the lecture is well received and the audience are reluctant to leave.

I have just arrived back at the hotel and it is 10.20pm. I need to pack and get some sleep as I am up at 3am for my long flight to Ecuador.

I have had a great time in São Paulo and cannot wait to return in December.

São Paulo. Brazil. Sunday August 6th 2006

My waiter has decided I am French. It is really quite funny that I am here in São Paulo conversing in a language that I thought I would not use this trip...we seem to be muddling through!

I begin my day in the Jardin Europa. An area, not unlike the exclusive neighbourhoods of Johannesburg...guard boxes at the end of the street and top line security cameras and gates on the homes.
However, what is striking is the informality of the place. The guard boxes are empty (because it is Sunday?) and there are people walking and jogging happily in the streets.

This great fear of crime in São Paulo has strong historic routes.

Until the 1950's, São Paulo was very much a European City (and this can be seen from the wonderful, although too often neglected, architectural examples across the city). The reason for the strong European influence was the immigration period of the 19th century which was led principally by the Italians and Germans.

São Paulo's growth, coming as it did in the 19th century, also meant that the city was developing after the slave period.

Slaves had been located in the North East of Brazil where the colonial capital of Salvador was located in the Bahia region. This was where they were abandoned by the Portuguese when the colonial power departed. On the resulting abolition of slavery the slaves 'ran to Rio' enmasse and it was really not until the 1960´s when São Paulo was expanding massively and needed labour, that North Eastern immigration to São Paulo began.

The favelas are quite simply illegal settlements were the immigrants located on either government or abandoned land. They grew up with the economic migration from the North and hence they remain almost exclusively coloured due to the history of the North East.

Toady there are actually more people from North East Brazil living in São Paulo than actually living back in North Eastern Brazil.

North Eastern Brazil today also has a high level of sex tourism, particularly with the young girls from the favela. It remains a contrast of traditional colonial mansions (the preserve of the political elite) and the favela of slave decent. You cannot blame a group of people for migrating in search of a better life for their children...we would all do the same!

'Traditional' residents of São Paulo fear 'colour' and if a North Eastern appearing person approaches you at a cross light you tend to drive through.

My journey around the city today is wonderful. It is a beautiful day and everywhere I look people are walking...in all districts of the city. We are not locked-in and we drive around the city with the windows open rather than pollute the environment with our air-conditioning.

I even conduct my own social experiment and leave the car parked with the windows down whilst I go and take some photographs. My ruck-sac is in the back seat and it is perfectly safe...there was nothing in it of course, but I just felt that I wanted to see if I could run a quick errand in São Paulo as I would in New York.

Of course, I choose a safe part of the city, just in the same way that I would never even park my car in certain areas of NYC.

I am actually taking photographs around the Monumento as Bandeiras which is dedicated to the groups (the Bandeiras) involved in colonisation. The monument was inaugurated in 1953 and as it represents the colonisation of Brazil it points West in the direction of the exploration.

My next stop is a typical street market selling the most wonderful fresh produce. Such markets are all over the city on different days (except Monday's). Unlike in Britain, prices actually go down here as the day goes on...after all the produce is no longer fresh...can you imagine such a concept at Tesco's?

I am with my own private guide and trust me I am to discover that this man is a master amongst tour guides. He has the city and his timings down to a fine art.

Over to Sé Square which is undergoing renovations in the attempt to rejuvinate downtown São Paulo. The marvellous cathedral here was actually only inaugurated in the 1950´s (at the very time the face of São Paulo was changing). As a church it was built for the wealthy of the city with materials imported from Italy. However, due to immigration and the fact that this area is considered today to be 'unsafe'...the wealthy have never come, prefering instead the 'churches of the beautiful' in areas like Jardin Europa.

The buildings around the area of the square are stunning and give it twenty years and you will not be able to buy real estate here for the astronomical price hike that is bound to occur on gentrification.

São Paulo is also awash with Art Deco architecture. When I think what we make in Europe and North America of one or two buildings and we call it an Art Deco trail...São Paulo has an tourist boom waiting to happen if it cleaned these buildings up.

The city is actually awash with Modernist, Post-Modernist, Colonial, Art Deco and buildings of the school of functionality...It is a treasure trove of architecture just driving down the Avenida Paulista.

We move on to Pateo do Colégio, the Jesuit or Foundation Square of São Paulo where you can actually still see the remaining part of the original monastery wall. After ringing the Mark of Peace bell which hopes for peace, fraternity and solidarity amongst peoples of the world we walk down to hear the gregorian chants at the São Bento monastery, where today two new monks are being officially welcomed into the Benedictine order. This monastery is an art lovers dream and no photograph can do the frescos justice...so I did not take any...you will need to come and see for yourself!

In the plaza outside I see an icon of Brazilian design, the 1960´s Aero Willys and it is in mint condition.

My walk downtown then takes me past the Martinelli Building from the 1920´s (the first skyscraper not only in São Paulo but in South America). Other highlights include the Banespa Tower (akin in style to the Empire State Building) and the former Banco do Brasil which is now a beautiful cultural centre where you need to see the beautiful clear skylight.

I get to see a really cool outdoor Samba performance just going on in the downtown streets.

This city has a stunning City Hall, an Opera House to rival any European counterpart for opulence and a downtown that is a mix of colonial remains and modern architectural experimentation...I really want to see the stunning Art Deco (that is everywhere) preserved!!!

In many ways I can draw parallels with downtown St Louis and the 'death of the downtown' caused by the move to the Suburbs.

We then head off to visit 'crack land'. I am not suggesting that this should be a tourist sight...you should never patronise people in their misery and so I take no photos as I know that my only reason to be here is to gain a fair picture of this big city...and trust me every big city has a crack land...you should see Detroit's.

The desolution of poverty, prostitution and homelessness is neither to be made a spectacle of or pitied...rather the root causes need to be challenged.

The British came to São Paulo principally to build railroads in the 1860's and 1870's. The railroad was a necessity to bring coffee into the City from the plantations and out again to the port of Santos. Next to the station built by the authorities stands the much grander Julio Prestes Station...now an outstanding concert hall as well as a station. This station was a demonstration of wealth by the coffee planters to show their greater power than that of the government.

We are now at the Station at Luz for a classic car show. This station was assembled by the British and then re-assembled here in São Paulo being inaugurated in 1901. It is one of two built to the same design, the other being sent to Sydney in Australia...so if you keep reading I will let you know if this is true when I get to Sydney.

The car show is great because I feel like a local. My guide, Alex, now my friend, is bartering for parts for his classic car with a dealer and I just pretend that I know what is going on. I may not know the language, but the body language is the same the world over...I think at this moment I am cool...the car show happens the first sunday of every month.

The Parça da Luz was the first man made park in the city of São Paulo and we dine in the Café da Pinacoteca. The sculptures around the park are wonderful and we are also hear to listen to a band of local musicians playing traditional music.

I dine on a Beirutes. This is a speciality of São Paulo and the sandwich finds its origins in the Lebanese immigration to the city...a topical name for a sandwich in the present situation.

The mix of rich and poor is brought home to me here in this park. A one time pleasure ground of the wealthy classes, today you find the 'great and the good' at the museum and even dining on the terrace but never venturing over the open threshold where prostitutes ply their trade in the middle of the day.

The contrast between rich and poor is probably clearer in Brazil than in anywhere else I have been in the world. The communities live together, indeed almost on top of one another (with the location of some favela) and yet both communities efficiently pretend the other does not exist.

The prostitutes working the park (because of necessity) do so yards from the dining middle and upper classes in the museum.

In this city the latest craze if you have wealth is the helipad. Then you can get from home to office without even having to view the poor.

It is interesting that some of the cars I have driven in have been 'basic'. This is common now among some wealthy members of society in an attempt not to draw attention to yourself.

Off again on my architecture search to arguably the most unique hotel in the world. The work of Ruy Ohtake (a Japanese São Paulo man...São Paulo has the largest Japanese community outside of Japan), from the rooftop Skye bar of the Hotel Unique you can see the city laid out before you. Here I enjoy an early afternoon Caipirinha before heading off to see the spectacle that is the 'early' queues for the football match. It is a sea of people around the São Paulo Futebo Stadium.

I am now on my way through the upscale district of Morumbi. Home to exclusive properties and the largest of the cities favela...Paraisópolis (meaning Paradise Land). This is the favela home of my friends from the Meninos do Morumbi project and I have come to visit. I have a truly lovely time. The children are climbing all over me, the families are welcoming me in to their homes. Everyone seems to want their photographs taken and I make the huge mistake of offering money. The kids at first are puzzled (possibly even offended) until they realise this is my only way to say thank-you...then we are all mates again. The funny thing about the youngsters who have limited English is that they can ask me perfectly clearly if I support Celtic...a real touch of home.

I had such fun in the favela and the people were so welcoming. I know these are dangerous places and I feel strongly that tourists should not go. As Alex tells me, and I agree, the favela should not be made into a tourist attraction (as in Rio) these are peoples homes and you need to be invited in.

My visit serves to remind me of one thing about racism and stereotyping...we were all immigrants once wherever we are 'from'...we forget this at our peril.

Back on the road we go to view the former home of the now incarcerated Chairman of Banco Santos. It is another stunning piece of architecture and another Ruy Ohtake project in this city.

Through the Parça Ibirapuera to view the buildings of Oscar Niemeyer from the auditorium with the back door that opens to offer a stage for outside performance to the Bienal building which hosts the 2nd largest art show in the world on a two year rotation with Italy.

The energy of this city does not stop and tonight I share yet another Brazilian experience in the company of friends.

You know when you are at school and there is the cool gang...this is the group and they are letting me play with them...mega!

The difference from school is that we are adults and these folks are genuinely chilled with no childish desire to prove anything.

I head off for a Reggae Brazilian evening at Mercearia do Conde with Susan. We are being joined by Reinaldo and Ewerton and as the wine and caipirinha flow I am getting to see yet another side of Brazilian life.

I will dine tonight on Risoto de Carne de Sol...simply sundried meat. It is delicious and I have a great evening to round off yet another great day.

And by the way...If you intend on coming to São Paulo then my private tour guide (and now my friend) was called Alex Brazales. Hire this guy. Whatever it costs he is worth it and then some. I am not putting his details on the net but you contact me if you need him and I´ll forward things on.

Oh and Marlene...he is as good a guide as I am on my turf and that's saying something!!

Thanks folks.

Will

In interpreting what I have written you need to remember some points...

Slaves were brought from Africa to all main ports along the coast of Brazil, including the Southeastern region.

Brazil was a colony from 1500 to 1808 and Salvador was its capital until 1763; Rio became capital then and when the Portuguese court moved to Rio in 1808 following Napoleon's invasion, Brazil was elevated to Kingdom, and then became independent in 1822 but not a republic; there was a transition period, the Empire - from 1822 till 1889. Slavery being abolished in 1888.

There remained a large contingent of slaves in the southeast; Rio was the capital and the gold mines were in Minas Gerais.

Northeastern does not necessarily mean ex-slaves or blacks.

The population of São Paulo state is 37 million whilst the population in the North-East of Brazil is 51 million.

It is important to remember that the view of history one is given in any location will to an extent be ´coloured´ by local views!

São Paulo. Brazil. Saturday August 5th 2006

This morning it is a Brazilian winter day. In contrast to yesterday with temperatures around 23/24 C today it is 12 C. I am up with the lark and it feels like I have never slept since I arrived in São Paulo and I love it!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The weather has changed greatly as the sun has come up and it is to be another lovely day in Brazil, and not just in the sense of the weather.

This morning I am gaining some 'local colour'. I begin my day once again in delightful company, with Christina, and we head out for the City Cathedral of São Paulo. The city is currently hosting an international delegation of Herald's of the Gospel and I get talking with some of these young people.

The group I begin conversing with are from Portugal and they speak better English than me!
I also spend a great deal of time speaking to Brother Michael who happens to be a brother living and working in London and he lives in Kingston not far from my own school.

It is a joy to meet young people with a belief.

I personally feel that I would rather someone had a belief or a passion for something...however misguided you or I may feel this passion is...than have no belief or inspiration for anything.

Yet again young people who are a breath of fresh air!

From here we make our way to the Mercado Municipal (the oldest market in São Paulo). The area is rich in local colour and downtown São Paulo is awash with bargain hunters. The area is considered by many to be unsafe...I found it a rich tapestry of life.

I was particularly impressed by the ingenuity of the young 'immigrants' who were parking cars on land they did not own but certainly controlled. These 'immigrants' are native Brazilians from the poor North East of the Country who are attracted to São Paulo because of its wealth and opportunity...no different to the belief that the streets of London and New York are paved with gold.

At least these young men were making an attempt to work!

We parked our Mercedes under the flyover, and it was not only perfectly safe, the young "valets" had parked and cleared many cars in the time we were away...this is not light work and they do well. The charges are low, but the young men were wearing the best of tennis shoes.

It is a work of art parking these cars...like a giant chess game.

In the market I enjoy a lunch of the local delicacy Pastel de Bacalhau (a sort of cornish pasty style stuffed with shredded codfish) and a mortadela sandwich washed down with what else but...Guaranã.

I also get up close and personal with the Guaranã seed.

In Vila Mariana I deliver my lecture on Global Citizenship to around eighty people. It goes brilliantly and I even get laughs!!

After the questions session I spend a great deal of time speaking to fascinating young people about our global environment, economics and education. It is wonderful to see the passion in their eyes for this project and the fact that they feel that someone genuine is interested in Brazil and not just another sound-bite politician.

I am interviewed by a local journalist and through it all there is one over-riding question. How do I find Brazil/São Paulo...the people, the welcome, the facilities and infrastructure?

I speak as I find...

Before coming to South America I was as ignorant as the majority of the developed world about this continent. We have prejudices and prejudices exist normally because there is an element of truth in them.

My guide today was telling me about the residential areas and how the security guards on the street corners are generally members of gangs with the real function of "marking out" different gangs territories. If you pay them protection money nothing happens to your home...if you don't you may be robbed and the security guard would have seen nothing.

Such an anathama to those of us in the West...well, not so, if we wake up and smell the coffee. Protection rackets exist in every large city in Britain, just no so obviously.

I have met with British people here who have been victims of violence. One young lawyer was telling me how she was mugged at gunpoint the other evening on her way home from her gym. Another gentleman was telling me about his car jacking just outside his home. Crime happens, but if I am being honest the only times in my life I have been mugged have been in two cities I call home...London and New York.

I can only say that I have found São Paulo to be a wonderful city: friendly people, modern facilities and forward thinking views. You speak as you find and this is what I have found.

There have been elements of the city on show for me no doubt, but the Cultura Inglesa have been outstanding in giving me what I want and that is access to 'worts and all' São Paulo.

It is only correct that I see the wealth and power because this is as much São Paulo as the favela. But I have also been to the poor communities. No matter what level of social standing everyone I have met has been generous with their time and welcoming and most importantly Proud...

Proud of Brazil and Proud of São Paulo...and they have every right to be!!

This afternoon I took my first ride alone on public transport to see the colour of the city...It is a vast and happening place from the poverty of favela districts to the low brow stack 'em high sell 'em cheap stores to the glitz of luxury condos and high end shopping.

São Paulo I have found is simply a city...you need in all cities to be careful...there are areas in Glasgow I have never been too and never will visit. What São Paulo is is mis-understood...don't condemn until you see this melting pot for yourself.

And one factor that puts Britain to shame is that when we have been working on this project the one element we could not get sponsored was the IT.

No company was willing to give us a lap-top that we could use for the project year.

The participants here in São Paulo are so excited by the project, that even in the Favela project I visited, they have been trying to secure me a lap top which would mean that I can interact much more regularly will all participants around the globe rather than searching for internet cafes. Today came another participant with an offer of IT support...

Whether or not this is achieved people here in the Third World are trying to help me, a Scholar from the First...SHAME ON YOU BRITAIN...I wonder at times just how developed we are?

This evening I head off with Christina and Alexandre to Terraço Itãlia, the tallest building in São Paulo (at 160 Metres). As far as the eye can see there is city. São Paulo is after all the third largest metropolis in the world. The view is spectacular and no photograph will do it justice. Looking out over the immediate area what strikes you is that the skyline could be New York at night...a myriad of skyscrapers.

This is no simple observation deck and the elegant dining, dancing and bar areas remind me somehow of the University Club in St Louis. They have the feel of an exclusive members club and again I am surrounded by the chic of the city.

In the Bar Executive I enjoy a Caipirinha, Brazil's national drink made from distilled sugar cane, lemon and sugar...a taste akin to the vodka family.

We then go to see the Copan Building. This is one of São Paulo´s Oscar Niemeyer works of art. The building is naturalistic in its curvature with a shape akin to the shape of the state of São Paulo. It also sits in the heart of the cities red light district and is home to almost 5000 people from prostitutes (although such activities would not be tolerated in the building) to TV and Soap Stars. There are 11,600 apartments and with such a social mix in the same building it is true to Niemeyer's communist ideals of different social classes living in harmony.

From here we head to the Bixiga area to see the spectacle that is the Festival of the Virgin of Achiropita. The streets are awash with the atmosphere of Carnival...this is Brazil with an Italian twist. We enjoy Brazilian pizza at the Pizzaria da Conchetta, the twist is the cream cheese used on the pizza...Just to let you know São Paulo has had a large Italian population since 19th century immigration and like all great cities it has its 'quarters'...tonight I touch on merely one.