Quito, Ecuador. Thursday 10th August 2006

Let me start with the positives.

Quito is the capital of Ecuador and sits high in an Andean Valley some 2850 metres above sea level.

As you will discover this is about all I can say in the positive about my experience of Ecuador thus far.

Take everything that you have heard negative about Latin America and multiply it...then you are approaching Quito.

I am glad I have come though because there is no doubt that the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site of Quito Old Town is well worth the visit. You could spend your time constantly photographing picturesque Colonial buildings, rich in colour and history...but watch out for the cities all too frequent uncovered drains.

However, as for the people. I am finding Quito to be possibly the most unfriendly place I have visited in the world (and I have been all over the world) and it is also very unsafe. Popular myth would have you believe that this innocent little country is a safe haven for tourists...NOT so!

Let me take you through my day...

At breakfast at my, very nice and friendly hotel, I head into the office to set up the day for the website.

Jumping in a taxi I head for the Plaza San Francisco. Everyone in this city wants to do business and yet again the taxi driver is all too ready with his number to call him for a tour...pity he is not so ready with my change as he makes off without giving it to me. This is now the third time in the past two days that I have been "ripped off"...you can have your fill of local colour!

The Monastery of San Francisco is well worth the visit. It has a wonderfully weather beaten feel to it. That said it is the cities oldest church being constructed between 1534 & 1604. The icons and gilt may be weather beaten, but they remain exceptionally beautiful...and this is the first time I have seen a statue of Jesus with dreadlocks.

Every square inch of this beautiful monastic church is covered with paintings, statues, frescos and icons of all descriptions. The stunning baroque altar is a marvel to behold.

The Monastery of San Francisco is the largest colonial structure in Quito and houses the Museo Franciscano which I would recommend to each and every visitor.

www.museofranciscano.com

www.museofranciscanoquito.com

I spend hours in what is arguably the best museum in the world for work of the Quiteña School of sculpture.

The Quiteña School is renowned for the naturalistic features of the work. One of the earliest examples of the school is El Abrazo De La Paz, a representation of St Francis of Assisi welcoming Jesus. St Francis is modelled standing atop a bible in recognition of the belief that the more you read your bible the closer you get to God.

Paintings such as Bautiza A Los Indígenas are reflective of the early baptisms of indigenous peoples carried out in Quito by Fray Jodoco Rique (on the establishment of the monastery). The fountain in this painting can still be seen in the museum courtyard.

A highlight of the museum are the Illuminated Choral Books in Latin of Gregorian Chants. These books were made by the indigenous peoples from leather which was sun-dried to make it like paper. The leather was then painted with natural pigment.

One of the most important sculptors represented is Padre Carlos. His 17th Century work is significant mainly because of his knowledge of anatomy. His sculptures contain teeth and veins and amongst the Holy Week sculptures on display, the statue of St Peter takes as its base a human skull (from a woman).

Another important 17th Century artist on display is Miguel de Santiago who represents the landscapes of Ecudaor in all his religious paintings.

Particularly unusual are the works of the Alabaster School where the paintings are made by repeatedly applying natural pigment to the marble until it penetrates and forms the image.

Another outstanding work is Hermano De Leche De Jesús which is a representation of the love of Santo Domingo De Guzmán for the blessed virgin...it was after all, St Dominic who created the Rosary.

The museum also contains several important works of the Cuencana School. The key difference between the Quiteña School (where Jesus crucified has his feet crosssed and pierced with one nail) and the Cuencana School (where Jesus crucified has his feet seperate and pierced with two nails) is that the former is influenced by Italy and the latter by Spain.

Moving out into the courtyard I am invited to taste the arrayan plant (which fills the Courtyard as box hedging). This plant is used by indigenous people to make both liquer and toothpaste.

The monastery is built with stone from Volcán Pichincha which also provides its mountain backdrop. On the upper level of the courtyard the acoustics are fantastic and provide a whispering gallery (just like St Paul´s in London...but with a better acoustic).

Entering the church balcony from the monastery I am able to view the current mass and I get a stunning view of the altar centrepiece, the Virgin of Quito.

The ceiling above the balcony contains 4,600 seperate pieces of wood and all are held together only by pressure, no adhesive has ever been applied. The ceiling is of Moorish influence and shows the constilation of the stars. As you know the Moors saw God represented in geometric form and produced stunning works to represent God in this way.

This museum has got to be about the best value museum in the world at $2 with your own private guide. I would have easily paid ten times that and felt I had value for money.

On to the Plaza Santo Domingo with its church (built between 1581 & 1650). The church is stunning, yet again and I have no doubt that you will find all the many churches in this city a work of art. You could spend months, if not years studying the churches of Quito and always find new marvels.

Santo Domingo is undergoing badly needed restoration work and although the Gothic Altar is not currently in use, you will be 'blinded by gilt' as you turn to the side chapel (where a mass is currently being said).

The church itself is a mini labyrinth of small side chapels and as I wander I listen to the beautiful hymn singing of the mass. Only after taking a few photos (and with one left to get) I was informed Prohibido Tomar Fotos(you cannot take photos)...this is where being foreign and No Hablo Español comes in handy...the photos are not great but I hope they give you a sense of the Church and the ongoing restoration.

From here I make my way to dine at Tianguez...my advice DON´T. No matter what the guide book says, the food is over-priced, the staff are arrogant to the point of being not only rude but openly hostile to the customers, as the lady at the next table found when her bag was stolen.

I had not long sat down when a very smart looking middle-aged local man came and sat at the table behind me. A group of three ladies were across from me. Without any of us noticing, the next thing we knew he was off with her handbag. Two of the ladies gave chase and the other lady and I attracted the attention of a policeman (yards from where we were). He simply could not have cared less.

In terms of the restaurant. Half an hour wait to be served, and it was not busy. I stayed because the girls in the office recommended it. The food was of very poor quality and service...what service?

I have been in Ecuador two days. On three occasions the locals have tried to rip me off. My welcome to the country was when my flight landed and the Ecuadorian gentleman behind me proceeded to hit me on the head with his suitcase...no apology. I am told that the Mariscal tourist area is unsafe at night and from what I have seen this is true.

Come to Quito for the Culture yes, but not for these arrogant people who hide behind a veneer of pleasantry.

For about the first time in my life travelling, I can´t wait to leave a place. The staff in the office tell me that the picture I paint is generally true and that the authorities are doing their best to improve the tourist picture...they better get a move on.

I for one have a few places I want to see in the next two days and then I am hoping that the countryside of this country (where I will spend the next month) is a much more positive experience.

Topping off the day...my taxi driver decides he will take me on a magical mystery tour from the Old to New towns. My in-built sense of navigation tells me this is wrong and I am to be proved correct.

He then attempts to get me to pay for this exploitation.

It is sad that I am learning very quickly how to argue in Spanish and not how to say very positive things.

After winning the debate I go into the hotel. I don´t like the vibe of this city at all, so tonight I am going to venture only to the Burger King next door...not very cultural but hey!