Saturday, August 12, 2006

Quito, Ecuador. Saturday 12th August 2006.

This morning I decide to try another method of transport. Today is the day that I have set aside to go to the Equator.

22 Kilometres north of Quito lies Mitad Del Mundo where you can go and stand simultaneously in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

I have set about doing some investigations and decide that I will hire my own personal driver for this trip. I do not wish to join a pre-packaged tour and I know that I will not get a fair deal from the cities taxi drivers.

I settle on Israel Espinosa and he is an excellent choice. We go out to Mitad Del Mundo and also to Pululahua and back to Quito all for $30. I, of course, pay for him to join me inside the park at Mitad Del Mundo and also in the various museums.

A good pointer for the traveller... I have not only my own driver, but also a secure place to leave my valuables (in the trunk of the car). Today I am moving to my G.A.P. Adventures hotel and so I am carrying all my possessions. I would be an easy target...but with the car, I only have to carry what I need.

As we get nearer to Mitad Del Mundo I enjoy the spectacle of the myriad of hawkers plying their wares for the tourist trade.

I have left early in the morning as this area is a haven both for tourists, and locals at the weekend; by midday it will be like Piccadilly Circus!

I have specifically chosen to wear my "Flying Scotsman" T-shirt today...a more appropriate choice I could not have made.

Driving along in the passenger seat Israel plays me "traditional" Ecuadorian Salsa music and shows me how to Salsa whilst seated. Our conversation is a wonderful mix of Spanish and English (but we understand each other).

I have that wonderful 'local' feeling, as I am not in a tourist taxi. I love the sights we pass, particularly the guy selling oranges from the back of his pick-up...but I must say they use a lot of brushes here in Ecuador, because every town seems to have a plethora of brush salesmen walking the streets.

At Mitad Del Mundo I get to place my feet firmly in both camps. It is amazing to think that the two halves of your body are in separate hemispheres. The Ethnographic Museum at the Equator Monument where the latitude is zero degrees is well worth the visit. You can climb the 30 metre height and take in the views such as Cotopaxi (the highest active volcano in the world). The current monument replaces the earlier structure of 1936 and was itself erected in 1979. The view up here on this clear day is breath-taking.

There are wonderful exhibits explaining the culture and geography of Ecuador. For example, you learn that the jungle areas main economy is based around eco-tourism and the planting of both tea and wood. Controversially there is also the issue of oil exploration.

The Highlands region is the base of agriculture, hydro-electric power, traditional handi-crafts, textiles and flower growing. Did you know that Ecuador exports roses to the Netherlands for example?

Ecuador is a base for the production of goods ranging from coco, sugar-cane and rice to bananas, fishing and oil.

The equator is a great place for experimentation. For example, water goes straight down the plug hole...it does not turn to either the left or the right. Also you can stand an egg on the head of a nail and it will balance freely.

I am really proud to say that my official photography sponsor POLAROID can be seen here at the Equator doing their bit for our environment. Not only have they very kindly sponsored this global education project aimed at bringing young people together through a greater understanding of our world...but they even provide the trash cans here at Mitad Del Mundo, and boy are they needed...

If there is one thing that really bugs me it is environmental vandalism and I am appalled at the bus of Western tourists who throw empty plastic bottles from their bus window as they pass slowly by.

The ancient volcanic crater of Pululahua lies some 5km north of Mitad Del Mundo. 60 families actually live in the crater (which is still active) due to the fertile soil to be found there.

Back in Quito I dine at Este Café in the Mariscal area, on Mexican food (the Grande Quesadilla) and Peruvian alcohol (the Pisco Sour).

This afternoon I join my travel sponsor G.A.P. Adventures and head tomorrow afternoon for Papallacta Hot Springs.

Checked into the hotel I meet my 'bunk buddy'...not really a room mate as we won't always have a room. Wayne is an American dude, the same age as me and a computer programmer from San Francisco...although he is originally from Pennsylvania...not far from my 'home' in Western New York and so we already have a bit in common. We spend the late afternoon over a beer or two, before it is time to meet our tour group.

It is all a bit like Agatha Christie. There is Wayne, of course, and myself and a young Australian couple. Matt is completing his PhD in the area of water purity. The rest of the group have been delayed because of the flight chaos ensuing as a result of the terrorist threat...so I will need to wait until tomorrow for the true 'Death on the Nile' experience.

Tonight I intend to enjoy the party atmosphere of Quito and Wayne and I head out to dine at La Crêperie in the Mariscal.

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