Otavalo. Saturday & Sunday 19th & 20th August 2006.

This morning we left the Hacienda and headed for Otavalo and the giant Saturday market. After a bite of lunch at the Buena Vista restaurant (which afforded us a complete view over the main market square), it was time to start bargaining for local handicrafts. The most unusual thing that I purchased was a ring made from the nut of the Tagua, or Palm, Tree.

In the afternoon both Anne Kathrin and I headed to the Convento El Jordán to visit the church. We then explored the area around the town square.

This evening we dined as a group at Pizzeria Siciliana being entertained by local otavaleños musicians before heading to La Jampa to dance into the small hours.

SUNDAY...This is a very religious country and as I lay in bed this morning I can hear the singing from 6am mass at the church in the town square as it spills out into the street.

Carmen and I went to the local bakery for breakfast and there were a group of kids raiding the bin for scraps to eat...so we took them inside the bakery with us and fed them. What was amasing was that the total cost was merely $3, yet for the lack of so little these children go hungry day after day.

It was an early start this morning as we headed first to Peguche to learn about the threats too many of the traditions of the indigenous people as the result of the younger generations lack of interest. We learnt that as the communities become more open, and more Western, the young are losing interest in their traditions as they are exposed to the lifestyles and opportunities of others around the globe.

This raises the question of globalisation of our society and the homogenisation of cultures. Again, I am made aware of why there is a worldwide anti-American feeling as indigenous cultures around the world succumb to the culture of the world´s global economic Emporer. Rightly or wrongly people are reacting to what they see as the bastardisation of their culture by a homogenous American identity. There are, of course, advantages in such globalisation...however there are also disadvantages.

We learn that the tradition within tribal communities in this locality is to marry between age 13 and age 18, and subsequently begin your own family. There are obviously population issues in relation to development...In the 21st century medical care is such that the need for an heir and a spare is negated, yet families are still as large...Divorce, a topic which was taboo until very recently within tribal communities is becoming increasingly common as the opening up of the communities has meant that the young are more aware of a larger shop window of choice that is not necessarily bringing social stability in its wake...The young are still marrying at an early age and having their families, but increasingly they are divorcing by 30 and having at least one second family. Family breakdown is now a major issue within tribes that are based on close-knit family identity.

We head on to the picturesque town of Cotacachi where I attend Sunday Mass at El Sagrario with a congregation almost exclusively indigenous in its make up. Lunch is at La Marqueza before we head on to the lagoon in Cuicocha Volcano where we enjoy a sail and take in the breathtaking scenery.

Ecuador is proving to be a beautiful country, the same I cannot say of its people. I have travelled the globe and never have I come across such a basically rude group of people as Ecuadorians. On an individual basis I have found them to be welcoming and I have enjoyed their company. On a collective basis, I have found them to be cold and generally unfriendly.

What really annoys me is that people seem to assume that they can just rip you off. When I go to pay for the internet time the woman claims she has no change and so I have to pay extra...she doesn't just knock the few pennies off...I can pay more, but if I was short a few pennies I am sure that they would not be as accommodating as they expect me to be!

This evening I dine on what can only be described as the most genuinely disgusting meal I have ever eaten at Restaurant Mi Otavalito...cold food, blood raw steak...it is awful.