Singapore. Tuesday 12th Deember 2006.

Today I head out to the Labrador Secret Tunnel exhibition in Labrador Park. The park is named after the bay which it overlooks and according to the publicity material you will

"Discover the sights and sounds of wartime Singapore amidst an oasis of tranquility and natural wonder!"

Labrador park is set on a cliffside looking out to sea and the site was originally the home of the prominent Singapore ship chandler George Mansfield who had Labrador Villa built in 1881.

Commanding one side of the Western entrance to Keppel Harbour, the British felt the site ideal for defensive installations.

In 1878 as part of a defensive review, forts were built on either side of the harbour entrance. Fort Pasir Panjang was built on Labrador on the Northern side.

From 1878 until the fall of Singapore to the Japanese in 1942 there were defensive works, gun emplacements, tunnels and ammunition stores on the site. Indeed, in the 1920's the guns were increased from 2 to 6.

By the 1930's, with the growing Japanese naval threat, a naval base was built in Singapore to house the British naval fleet in the East. To protect this base the gun fortifications were upgraded along Singapore's Southern coast. Two new and modern guns were mounted on the site which was renamed Labrador Battery. The guns ceased fire on 13th February 1942, just before the surrender.

The tunnel complex was only re-discovered in 2001. The British had blown part of the complex up to prevent use by the Japanese when Singapore fell. All maps and documents were destroyed and the area eventually became overgrown. The tunnel complex was only re-discovered when the area was subject to re-development.

The mentality of Fortress Singapore is all too evident in the local newspapers of the time which reflect an ignorance of the looming disaster even after the Japanese had invaded the Malay penninsula.

Indeed, particularly after last nights Tiffin Curry, I noted an advert on the front page of The Singapore Free Press, Saturday January 31st 1942 for the Sea View Hotel who were offering a Tiffin Curry Special served between 12.30 and 2.30 on the Sunday.

I dined today at The Olive in Labrador Park, which is also a beautiful site to explore flora and fauna.

This afternoon I took myself on a self-guided tour of Singapore's Colonial Era homes. These homes of high society were constructed in the 1920's and 1930's and they are known as Black and Whites, built as they were in Mock Tudor style.

The areas of Chatsworth Road and Ridley Park offer the best surviving examples and so I took myself off down Chatsworth Road past the huge Indonesian Embassy and on my way. It is normally the American Embassy that wins the award for ridiculously large and hideous architecture, but the Indonesian's are certainly up for some praise for this effort.

There are some lovely modern homes here, like number 8 Chatsworth Road; but I have to say that efforts like number 2 Ridley Park could possibly be the most hideous home I have ever seen. With five ferrari's parked in the bay and a collection of other exclusive cars, this home dominated by a giant golden eagle statue is a reflection of the fact that money certainly does not buy taste. Number 2A next door is almost as bad and so on the Ridley Park leg of my walk I am glad when I get to number 16.

Anyway, back in Chatsworth Road there are lots of modern homes but when you stumble across originals like Number 3, number 17 (with its stone tigers racing across the lawn), numbers 20 or 23 or 24...you can only imagine what it must have been like for the owners who were raped from their homes by the invading Japanese. Another noteworthy property is number 305 Tanglin Road where I cross to explore Ridley Park.

Typical of the domestic architecture of the wealthy in this period the homes all have high ceilings and in the colonial style of the tropics they house shaded verandahs and covered walkways connecting the servants quarters to the main house.

Once you pass number 6 in the cul-de-sac time seems to have stood still amongst this stunning collection of black and whites. From the cane furniture of the verandah to the thumping of the tennis ball...modern pools seem to be the only concession to change and it is glorious.

Walking through the army area of Loewen Road I spied an old colonial balcony on one of the old army buildings and could picture the Japanese barking orders from such venues during the occupation.

As I headed over to explore the warehouse area at the end of Loewen Road I must have been quite a sight...what's it they say...only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun. Well, a very nice lady in one of the many warehouses took pity on this Scotsman bringing me out a glass of water. After a very pleasant conversation and viewing some really lovely garden furniture I headed off again to see St George's Church.

The church was built in 1911 as a replacement for the old garrison church of the 1890's to serve the spiritual needs of the British forces stationed here at the Tanglin Barracks. Open sided with shutters and fans hanging from the ceiling, the church however remains unmistakably English from its plaques to its woven kneelers this could be the Home Counties in 21st Century Singapore.

Tonight I am hitting the town again this time being entertained by Chong from my sisters office here in Singapore.

I am getting the chance to dine like a local on chickenrice at Boon Tong Kee Little Gourmet on River Valley Road where I am the only Westerner in this locals establishment.

Irene, Chong and I then head to Mount Faber, the highest point of the city to take in the night view before heading off in the car on a tour of the city ending on the Esplanade.