Singapore. Friday 15th December 2006.

My day begins with a visit to the colourful shutters of the Old Hill Street Police Station. Unlike the Hill Street Police Station of my youth (in the Vale of Leven) this is a colossal building in the colonial tradition of mammoth building tasks.

This is an appropriate building to have become the home of the Ministry of Information, Communication and the Arts since between 1845-1856 the site was home to the Singapore Assembly Rooms as well as a school.

The Police Station and Barracks were designed by the Public Works Department in 1930 under F. Dorrington Ward. When completed four years later it was the largest building in Singapore at six storeys and 911 windows. It remained a police post during the occupation and up until 1980 when a housing priority scheme for the Singapore Police Force was introduced and policemen were able to buy their own flats. The last occupant left the building in 1979.

On to that other staple of emergency services and the Central Fire Station. This 1909 building was a major step towards modern firefighting in Singapore and like the police station it was built with residential quarters along with the garages for the newly available motorised fire engines. The building design incorporated a central tower for fire watching and drying out hoses in a building very similar to the old Fire Station in Eastbourne.

Nineteenth century Singapore with its narrow streets and crowded houses meant that fire could spread quickly resulting in massive devastation to property and serious loss of life. Despite three fire stations having already been built it was only when the municipal authorities employed the Father of the Singapore Fire Service, Montague Pett, from Kent, Englnd (the colony's first professional fireman) that he called for a modern central station.

Following Singapore's worst ever fire in the Bukit Ho Swee, Kampong (or Village); housing provision for everyone dramatically improved. A new estate was built on the site by the Housing and Development Board such that today over 80% of Singapore's residents live in HDB flats. A true model of social progress!

Operating in the world's second densest population area the Singapore Civil Defence Force are the world leaders in all aspects of fire safety for high rise living. The active fire and civil protection programme in this city reminds everyone that their comfort and prosperity depend as much on operational effectiveness in times of peace as in emergency; and that everyone has a role to play. This 21st century city has certainly learned the lessons of its history. It is so advanced, and I didn't think I would enjoy the Civil Defence Heritage Gallery...its fantastic!

On now for lunch at the Hog's Breath Cafe at Chijmes.

In the wall of the Chijmes complex is The Gate of Hope. This small gate in the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus is where many babies were abandoned in baskets to be entrusted to the care of the sisters of the convent. Such was the origin of the Home for Abandoned Babies.

For over 100 years the orphanage was home to children from poor or broken families as well as unwanted babies. The orphanage took in many baby Chinese girls born in the year of the tiger because of the strong superstitious belief that "Tiger Girls" would bring bad luck to their families. In 1968, the Mother Superior noted that this practice had stopped as there was a marked change in the superstitious belief. The convent was founded in 1854 by the French Catholic missionary Father Jean Marie Beurel.

The world over we walk each and every day passed important points in human history (local and tourist alike) ignorant of their significance. As I stand here contemplating this insignificant gate I realise that Singapore is no different.

The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd is much more than the home of the relics of the French/Korean Saint Laurent Imbert. Ordained a priest in Paris on December 18th 1819 and sent as a missionary to Sechuan, China; he is considered to be the first priest to visit the few catholics living in Singapore when he arrived in December 1821. He reached China in March 1825 and was beheaded for his faith near Seoul on September 21st 1839 leading to his beatification with the Korean Martyrs on July 5th 1925. He was canonised on 6th May 1984 in Seoul.

My next port of call is the Civilian War Memorial dedicated to all those who perished during the 1942-1945 Japanese occupation. The four vertical pillars sore 70 metres high to form an obelisk that symbolises the shared wartime experiences of the Chinese, Malay, Indian and other races with the remains of unknown victims interred beneath. The monument was unveiled on the 25th anniversary of the Fall of Singapore.

If there is one thing I have learned on this project it is the harsh realities of man's inhumanity to man. Both on a personal level and through the cultural and historical experiences I have had I am only too well aware that we choose not to learn the lessons of history and that we go from one generation to the next seeking to destroy others and gain a personal wealth that even the Egyptians could not take with them. For one thing my experiences are making me more spiritually aware of the good that can come from belief in God and service to others. Speaking of God now on to St Andrew's...

St Andrew's Cathedral is actually the second building on this site with the first St Andrew's Church built between 1835 and 1837 and designed in a neo-classical style by G.D.Coleman. After being struck by lightening twice the building was declared unsafe and the present cathedral built between 1856 and 1861 by Ronald MacPherson.

Like the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd this building has a truly colonial feel of fans and vents; but as the established church in the Empire it is much more ornate and luxurious.

Singapore's municipal architects from the 1860's until the 1920's: G.D.Coleman, J.F.McNair, John Bennet and Frank Dorrington Ward designed in the classical renaissance style.

The Civic District was the historic birthplace of Singapore where the early settlers lived and worked and it became the seat of British Colonial Government.

The grand buildings of this area are reflective of the muscular Christianity on which the Empire was founded.

The Municipal Building was built between 1926 and 1929 and named City Hall when Singapore became a city (by Royal Charter) in 1951. It was here that the British accepted the surrender of the Japanese on September 12th 1945 and where Lee Kuan Yew as Prime Minister proclaimed self government for Singapore on June 5th 1959. Again it was the City Hall that was the venue for the announcement of merger with Malaysia on September 16th 1963 and where full independence was declared on August 9th 1965. The F.D.Meadows designed building served the Municipal Council which had been created in 1856 to manage town services and which continued in existence until 1963.

The Padang, a Malay word meaning flat field, has been an open space in the city since Raffles Town Plan of 1822 and it remains the civic space for national events.

City Hall together with the former Supreme Court next door will re-open again in 2012 as a museum housing the national art collection. The Supreme Court was the last of the colonial pre-war buildings to be opened (on August 3rd 1939 by the Governor Sir Shenton Thomas).

The colonial buildings of the Empire were always strong and muscular to emphasise the power of an "Empire on which the sun would never set". No wonder the people of Singapore were lulled into a false sense of security in Fortress Singapore.

The city of today has taken the best of its past in all senses including architecture and blended this with the modernity of the 21st century. From the mini St Paul's dome of the Supreme Court building we blend with the Niemeyeresque space ship of the new court complex opened in 2005.

The Court or Parliament House was completed in 1827 and is said to be the oldest government building in Singapore. It was designed to be a residence for John Argyll Maxwell, one of the three original magistrates appointed by Stamford Raffles. Designed by G.D.Coleman it was built on land designated for government use and so on completion Maxwell leased the building to the government. Outside stands a statue of an elephant commemorating the 1871 visit of the Supreme King of Siam to Singapore, the first foreign land to be visited by a Siamese monarch.

A short stroll to the Singapore River and here we find Raffles Landing Site where he came ashore on January 28th 1819.

Heading back towards the Victoria Halls I pass the Dalhousie Obelisk built to commemorate the visit to Singapore of the Governor-General of India, Lord Dalhousie and his wife in 1850 when Singapore was a thriving port under the East India Company.

The Victoria Concert Hall and theatre complex have an interesting history. The theatre was originally the Town Hall and built to replace the Assembly Rooms. It only became the Victoria Theatre in 1909. The neighbouring Concert Hall was completed in 1905 as the Victoria Memorial Hall and in 1979 it became the home of the Singapore Symphony Orchestra.

The statue of Sir Stamford Raffles that stands in front of the Victoria Theatre is the original with the statue at North Boat Quay (Raffles Landing Site) actually a replica.

Well I couldn't resist afternoon tea at Raffles on my last full day in Singapore and so I head off to experience the traditional Christmas tea in the Bar & Billiard Room with Raffles blended tea.

Sadly for Raffles...in the vain of afternoon tea, the young pretender at The Fullerton takes the crown.

I go on to explore the hotel complex and could not resist having my photograph taken with the Scottish Fountain then its back to the Bar and Billiard Room (the first in Singapore to have a lady bartender and where famously in 1907 the legendary tiger was spotted hiding under a billiard table) for a Million Dollar Cocktail.

The Million Dollar Cocktail was once as popular as the Singapore Sling and was invented by that legendary Raffles bartender Mr Ngiam Tong Boon in the early 1900's. Its notoriety was enhanced when it featured in Somerset Maugham's barside tale "The Letter". The tangy bitter-sweet creation contains 30ml of Gin, 7.5 ml of Sweet Vermouth and 7.5 ml of Dry Vermouth, 120ml of pineapple juice, a dash of egg white and a dash of Angostura Bitters.

At one end of the Padang lies the Singapore Recreation Club with a history that mirrors both the city and the growing liberalisation and civilisation of developed society. From social exclusivity to multiracial and sexually inclusive co-existence in the pursuit of sporting excellence.

Travelling down Queen Elizabeth Walk you first encounter the splendid fountain dedicated to Tan Kim Seng who made a generous donation to the cost of the Singapore Water Works. He was the second Asian Justice of the Peace in the City and active in the world of education, particularly the Chinese Free School. He recognised the health importance of an adequate water supply. His ambitious plans for the cities first water works however were only implemented after his death. This beautiful fountain could infact be a feature of any British Municipal Park.

The Cenotaph is modelled on those found at home and all over the British Empire. The ceremonial stone was actually laid in the presence of Clemenceau with the monument being unveiled by the Prince of Wales on March 31st 1922. Louis Mountbatten, who would return to Singapore as Supreme Commander South East Asia Command and receive the Japanese surrender at the City Hall on September 12th 1945 was in the Duke of Windsor's entourage.

Walking on you pass the controversial Indian National Army Monument which is dedicated to the unknown warrior and was built with Japanese support by the collaborators of the Indian National Army who worked with the occupiers in pursuit of liberating India by force from the British. The foundation stone here was laid by Subhas Chandra Bose in July 1945; a traitor who led the Indian National Army in Singapore from 1943. The British on returning to Singapore demolished the "memorial" barely two months later!

From here you will come across the memorial to the great Chinese war hero Major-General Lim Bo Seng. A prominent Singapore businessman who joined the underground resistance section of 136 Force leading the Malayan Chinese Section. He was captured on March 27th 1944 by the Japanese and tortured for anti-Japanese activities being murdered at the age of 35 on June 29th 1944. He was subsequently buried after the war with full military honours here in Singapore.

I conclude my walking tour at the Jewel of the Padang, The Singapore Cricket Club established here in 1852. A home for hockey, football, rugby, tennis, bowls, squash, billiards and snooker, as well as cricket; like the Singapore Recreation Club it traces the colonies history from its beginnings as a tent to the present colonial building of 1907 that was to first admit women in 1938, serve as a temporary hospital in the Battle for Singapore and become a luxury restaurant/bar for Japanese officers in the occupation. The building was to be requisitioned by the British military administration on liberation before being returned to become an international multi-racial membership club.

Night is beginning to fall as I sit here looking out across the Singapore River at Boat Quay. I am joined by a lovely old Chinese gent (a trishaw driver) as we talk about old Singapore.

I think I must have been Asian in a former life. I have always enjoyed my travels in the Far East more than anywhere else. I love the people, the history, the culture. I am not saying that I regret discovering South America first hand but I am fascinated by the East and have been since I was a small boy listeneing on my Papa's knee to his tale of his life in the Orient.

Tonight is my chance to take to the river and I do so on a traditional bumboat tour. Bumboats have two eyes painted at the front in order that the boat can see where it is going and as a symbol of good luck.

I dine this evening at Renn Thai at Clarke Quay and enjoy a Tiger Beer, the national beer of Singapore. Sadly this is the first poor dinner I have and the only poor service I encounter in Singapore but what can you expect in an area designed for the expat and tourist market?

Interestingly I read an article today in the Straits Times pointing out that football (in the current Asian Games) is bringing all Iraq together. Iraq are finalists. This highlights the points I made in an article about the importance of sport in nation building published some years ago!