Monday, January 08, 2007

Tuesday 9th January 2007. Sydney. NSW.

Up and out early this morning Sandra, Julia and I are off on a walk to Cremorne Point. Our route takes us down Shell Cove Road (look up Alex Buzo and his Australian plays) and through Cremorne Reserve across the traditional lands of the Cameraygal people.

As you enter the Reserve there is a wonderful old sign that warns of a £2 fine for anyone removing plants. We pass MacCallum Pool and head on through this lovely natural park that is maintained by the volunteers of Bush Care in conjunction with North Sydney Council. The Bush Care project here started in 1993 and by 1998 there were some 200 volunteers.

Passing the Scottish Cairn we arrive at our destination and the navigation light. The Cremorne Point Navigation Light was constructed in 1910 and it was one of the first in Australia to use reinforced concrete in its construction.

On the route back home we take in historic houses such as Honda and the wonderful roses of Billong Street.

Honda 1858 was originally the home of the architect Francis H. Grundy and later of William C. Bennett the Commissioner for Roads and Bridges whose daughter Agnes was the second woman ever to graduate with a science degree as Dr Agnes Bennett from the University of Sydney and who led both a distinguished medical career and who campaigned for better education and health care for women and children.

Back home and I will tell you a little more about Benjamin Boyd. A banker, merchant, pastoralist and whaler he arrived on his yacht the Wanderer from England in July of 1842 and established his businesses at Neutral Bay and in various parts of New South Wales. Boyd would be killed by cannibals in Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands in October 1851 and his yacht after that terrible voyage was wrecked at the entrance to Port MacQuarie.

I take myself out in search of Nutcote; the home and studio of the artist and writer May Gibbs. Gibbs is recognised as Australia's Beatrix Potter and is famous for her stories about Snugglepot and Cuddlepie. Gibbs lived here in Neutral Bay from 1925 until her death in 1969. Unfortunately the B.J.Waterhouse Spanish Mission Style villa built in 1924 was closed today.

This afternoon we head out on a drive to the airport with Julia via Rushcutters Bay and past The Flavour of India on New South Head Road where Michael Hutchence had his last meal before he committed suicide. On up through Edgecliff, we head through Double Bay and Rose Bay heading out to Nielsen Park and on to the mansions of Coolong Road. Over to Watson's Bay and we head for the stunning view that is Gap Bluff. Our route now takes us up past Signal Hill Reserve and South Head Lighthouse to Bondi Beach and on to the airport.

A nice cup of tea at home and a ferry ride to Circular Quay and Sandra and I are off to meet Nigel at the Shangri la Hotel for afternoon cocktails (and a really stunning view) in the Blu Horizon Bar where I enjoy the signature Blu Cosmopolitan cocktail.

On our way to dinner we see the site of the first execution in the new colony. Here on the corner of Essex and Harrington Streets was where Thomas Barrett, a first fleet convict was hung on February 27th 1788 for stealing provisions.

On to the site of the first gaol in Sydney. This thatched log prison was 80ft long with 22 cells and it was built in 1791. Burnt down on the night of January 11th 1799 it was replaced in 1801 and the new gaol remained onsite and in use here at the bottom of Essex Street until 1841.

Tonight we dine at Sailors Thai. This famous Rocks establishment is housed in the Victorian-Romanesque former Sailor's Rest Home. Here in the Carrs Wing of this seamans mission (constructed in 1926) is the site of this ultra modern dining experience. We all sit at a communal steel table in ultra chic surroundings contained in a Federation Free Classical facade. Sailors Thai was the first restaurant to have won a Michelin Star for Thai food.

Life takes you constantly by surprise as I have found out this year. From extremes of high and low I never fail to be impressed by the amazing people I am lucky enough to meet.

Nigel I knew was a former naval officer in HM Royal Navy but I never knew he was based in the Far East at the time when the Far East Fleet was disbanded and sailed out of its home in Singapore for the last time. My Papa was also a sailor with HM Royal Navy's Far East Fleet.

Nigel was also lucky enough to be at sea when the rum ration was abolished and his ship ceremonially lowered the ensign to half-mast and buried its last keg of rum at sea.

Famously Nigel was one of the doctors on the Blue Nile expedition. The Great Abbai Expedition of 1968 explored corners of the gorge that had never been penetrated by Europeans before. Sponsored by The Daily Telegraph the expedition went to an area "infested by robber bands beyond the control of the central government in Addis Ababa". Led by Captain John Blashford-Snell, R.E., the expedition was concerned with the virtually unknown Ethiopian section of the Blue Nile.

In an expedition party that included the likes of Chris Bonington, Surg. Sub-Lt Nigel Marsh as a medical officer was newly qualified from Edinburgh University. During the expedition Nigel had the distinction of operating on a tribal chief and saving his life using the most basic of equipment.
Sadly, Nigel's medical officer Ian McLeod, a Black Watch Corporal from Glasgow was to lose his life during the course of the expedition.

Jasmine tea in the sunroom at home and a wonderfully long chat with my family back in Bonnie Scotland completes the perfect day.

Tonight I begin reading the Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám.

There is a great deal to think of in the concept that "the old Tentmaker, who, after vainly endeavouring to unshackle his Steps from Destiny, and to catch some authentic Glimpse of TOMORROW, fell back upon TODAY (which has outlasted so many Tomorrows) as the only Ground he got to stand upon, however momentarily slipping from under his Feet".

For me, currently battling with the dicoveries I have made this year about the human condition I see in us all the struggle between the security of the known (yesterday), the crude certainties of today and the fear, hopes, dreams and ambitions of tomorrow (which we all want yesterday!).

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