December 29th/30th. Sydney. Australia.

December 29th 2006

Today we chill out at home and enjoy a day of relaxation watching movies. It is not such a great day for heading out anyway as the weather is very mixed and infact there is a spectacular storm with thunder, lightening and torrential rain this afternoon.

December 30th 2006

Up and off too Balmain by bus, train and ferry.

This former industrial hub is now one of the cities coolest suburbs and as I discover it is a wonderful mish-mash of architectural styles. First stop off the ferry is Thornton Park and the beginning of our historical walk.

Along with that First Fleet that came out from England were a bevy of medical personnel to provide for the health and well-being of the first Australians. William Balmain, after whom this area is named, was a surgeon's mate who rose to prominence after removing an Aboriginal spear from the shoulder of Governor Philip. Going on to serve as Second Assistant Surgeon and then as Principal Surgeon of New South Wales; between 1797 and 1803 he was the Principal Secretary to the Colony.

In 1800, Balmain was given a land grant of five hundred and fifty acres by Governor Hunter. The interesting twist is that as a man with varied business interests Balmain went on to sell the entire grant to John Gilchrist of Calcutta for the princely sum of five shillings, or about twenty-five pence today.

Initially the area was not a popular spot with settlers as it lacked any sort of transport infrastructure to the main settlement. Initially the only means of transport was by rowing boat and as such the first stop on my walking tour was Waterman's Cottage. Built by John Cavill, a Cornish stonemason, this building was constructed on the build one, let one principle where the proceeds from a buildings rental would allow for its twin to be built.

From the 1830's land in this area began being sold off and sub-divided. Just below Waterman's Cottage lies the former Shipwright's Arms on the corner of Weston Street. Until 1846, this popular spot was known as the Dolphin Hotel, but with the whalers, sailors and ferrymen gone its popularity decreased and in 1966 the doors of the Shipwright's were permanently closed.

This area is a wonderful mix of speculative development; of historic homes and industrial buildings. Factories grew up. A sawmill, a chemical plant, a candleworks, a soap plant and even coalmines thrived and with the influx of labour came the building of narrow cottages squeezed in between the workplaces. Today these sought after character properties have gone from industrial slum to gentrified café society.

As we pass the bowling green it is a buzz with twenty-somethings enjoying a drink and a quiet game of bowls. Our first stop in this area is Clontarf Cottage built in 1844 and today a community resource centre. The highlight though is to be found at the other end of Ewenton Avenue where number 12b Grafton Street is an imposing villa built between 1847 and 1849 and the former residence of Sir Henry Parkes. Parkes lived in this sandstone property of Doric columns, green shuttered French doors and flag-stoned verandah whilst he served as Premier of New South Wales between 1888 and 1892.

Parkes was actually repeatedly elected as Premier from 1872, but his key role was as Father of the Federation, instrumental as he was in the joining of the states into one single nation.

Our next stop is the Watch House (1854), the former police station and gaol designed by the Colonial Architect Edmund Blacket. Now a wonderful base for the Balmain Association aside from the historical and art exhibits the highlight of any visit has to be the poshed dunny in Sydney. This toilet was built around 1878 and not only was it dressed with sandstone but it was topped with its own chimney.

One of the best indicators of the areas industrial past comes in the next street, Colgate Avenue. Look down from the corner of the Watch House and you can still see the Colgate Palmolive sign on the former factory wall ahead of you. An industrial heartland this area is the home of the Australian Labor Party which was formed in Mort Bay in 1891.

We head on up Darling Street to St Andrew's Church the site of the famous Balmain markets...each and every Saturday (except, of course, today). Enroute we pass the famous London Hotel with its wonderful wide verandah filled with people watchers enjoying a cold beer.

Balmain is home to more pubs than any other Sydney suburb; but today we choose café life lunching at All About Romana's before heading off to the civic precinct home to the imposing colonial post office, police station and court house complex; designed and built simultaneously by the Colonial Architect's Office under James Barnet. The Town Hall completes the high victorian grandeur and across the road you find the somewhat less imposing Fire Station.

Heading back into town Ben and I chill out and take in the atmosphere of First Fleet Park before heading back home.

Tonight we all dine as a family at The Terrace on Pittwater in the Newport Arms Hotel looking out over Pitt water to celebrate Tom's impending departure too England.