Friday 20th October. Lima, Peru.

Well folks sorry about the delay in updating things but there have been connection problems with blogger.

This morning I was woken by my first true South American earthquake experience.

There were two temblores just before six am.

I am currently in the classroom at Markham College with the third Primary Five class of the morning. We have just changed over from mathematics to art and I am having yet another great day with my mate Tim Dallman.

As the day goes on I am having the greatest time imaginable. I am amazed at the inspirational teaching I am witnessing and I greatly enjoy sharing educational ideas with Lizzie McMahon, Headmistress of the extraordinarily (some twenty classes) large Early Years section of the College.

A large part of my day is spent with a Primary One class who have a simply outstanding command of what is after all their second language. The Early Years section in the school adopts a policy of language immersion which means that by the time the students progress from Kindergarten to Primary most have a command of English (both written and oral) that is comparable...and arguably more advanced...than their counterparts in the UK.

I had a wonderful day today at school. I remain fascinated by the different educational styles I am fortunate enough to witness during my travels and it was a joy to speak to Tim's classes about the project and its aims and to build an e-mail link between Primary school partners.

Tonight I am making the next major step on the road to recovering my confidence.

I have really enjoyed Lima and it is right that I begin venturing out again in the evening. Lima does not possess the feeling of threat that I sensed in either Ecuador or Caracas and so on a personal level I have more spring in my step.

Also as Tim rightly suggests this is the South American city in which to face my fear head on as I have back-up here that I will not have elsewhere.

So armed with Tim's mobile phone (for emergencies) I head off in a taxi and onto the streets of Lima at night. I have arranged to meet up with some project acquaintances, but I will make my way into and from town all on my own.

The evening proves to be one of enlightening experience and I am amazed when 1am arrives and I am still on the town. It is time now to make my excuses and head out onto the streets to locate a taxi and hopefully learn a few more words of Spanish as I make small-talk enroute back to Los Alamos de Monterrico.

The earth moved tonight for the second time in 24 hours!


Thursday 19th October. Lima, Peru.

Today I am heading off into Central Lima with Jorge, an old friend of Tim and Margarita and our host at the cocktail party Tuesday evening.

Jorge is a true renaissance man. Lawyer, travel agent, property developer, wine expert, speaker of French, Spanish, English etc etc etc.

I could not be in better company for my tour of his home city.

We begin with a drive around the city focusing on the historical and architectural significance of the main buildings and Plazas.

On entering Lima proper you are greeted by the monument to the Pacific War, fought between Peru and Chile in those days post independence when the countries of South America were asserting their individual strength.

Architecturally, central Lima is home to a significant French neo-classical influence in its building design, yet it is also home to the myriad of architectural styles that characterise the recent social history of the human race.

From stunning (if neglected) colonial buildings, through the grand European design of the Palace of Justice complex, through Art Deco and that hideous 70's affair with concrete which when done well is excellent and when poorly designed...as in the Sheraton Hotel complex...is appalling.

Like so many areas of the developing world, culturally aware Peruvians were looking toward Europe for style influences in the 19th and early 20th century's. In particular the rich were looking toward France which remained a hot bed of chic in everything from art and literature to philosophy and architecture hence the heavy French influence in the City's architecture.

One thing that I noticed early here in Peru is that almost all the beggers are willing to give you something in return, even if it is just a sweetie. You get something for your donation and often this is a wonderful display of circus skills from the very talented street children.

My driving tour takes me via sites ranging from the Plaza San Martin (constructed to mark 100 years of Peruvian independence); to the original site of San Marcos University (the first university in South America) to the old financial centre with its buildings reminiscent of Wall Street and The City.

The centre of the city is the outstandingly beautiful Plaza de Armas and its layout reflects the role Lima once held as the centre of Spanish colonial power in South America. The buildings on the four sides of the square housing the power of the Church, the executive, the regional government and commerce.

At the Plazas' centre stands a bronze fountain dating from 1650 which flows once a year on Pisco day not with water, but with the national drink of Peru.

The Cathedral surprisingly will not be the focus of my visit to the city's churches as I am destined for the gem that is the Church of San Pedro to crown my spiritual day.

Instead, in the Plaza, I head into the Palacio Arzobispal adjoining the Cathedral, which although it dates only from 1924, possesses one of these stunning wooden balconies that abound in the city centre.

When I get to the church of San Pedro I realise it is an overlooked gem in this city of churches. It contains the most stunning collection of art and although covered in gilt it is not overdone!
The church is a treasure house of work from the Cuzqueńa school with its merging of both Inca and Catholic iconography. You will see saints depicted in Spanish colonial dress with native feathers in their hair. You will even see saints depicted as pregnant!

The two wooden side altars are simply outstanding. I have never ever seen a bookcase like the Holy Family Altar and as for the Sacred Heart which dominates the central dome, who could fail to be inspired?

My tour naturally leads to the Monasterio de San Francisco famed for its catacombs that are estimated to be the site of roughly 70,000 burials.

However enroute to San Francisco we detour to the Congress building, not really for the architecture but rather to take the air on the most polluted street in Lima...and you really can feel the filth at the back of your throat!

I really like Lima. It has a warm and friendly feel in the same way that I loved Sao Paulo...and the similarity does not end there. Both cities are architectural and cultural gems and so I now head off for the Ferrocarril Central to view not just the stunning train station but also to take the opportunity to pop-in on a traditional leather workshop where you can still have shoes, saddles etc handmade.

Across from the station lies the Bar Cordano, a true city gem that is a moment in history captured for the present. This is a true locals establishment right down to the ham or roast sandwiches and the clients who have jumped straight from the pages of a mid-twentieth century novel.

Heading off past the Palacio de Gobierno where unfortunately there is no changing of the guard today (due to a ministerial meeting) we head down to see the old post office complex and on to the Convento Santo Domingo home to the remains of San Martin de Porres who remains an inspiration to the black community worldwide as he was the first black saint in the Americas'.

My architectural tour ends at the stunning Casa De Osambela, a true reflection of the colonial wealth and power of the merchant class.

Jorge and I now turn our attention to the great love of limeños, eating. We are to dine at L'Eau-Vive Del Perú, a unique restaurant run by the Sisters of the Carmelite Monastery and an institution in the city. I am told that if you dine here in the evening you are entertained by the sisters singing Ave Maria.

My day is rounded off by a true Lima experience. Jorge and I head to the Hotel Maury in whose bar it is claimed the first ever Pisco Sour was mixed.

Tonight Tim, Margarita and I dine at Tres Marias in Surco where I had my first Algarrobina which is a pisco based cocktail mixed with the syrup of the Algarrobo tree and condensed and evaporated milk. I also enjoyed had my first taste of Chicha Morada which is a drink made from dark purple corn cobs.


Wednesday 18th October. Lima, Peru.

Back in the saddle and today I am to spend the day teaching English to local university level students who are aiming to improve their English as a means to enhancing their job prospects.