Buenos Aires. Tuesday 21st November 2006.

This morning the first stop was a tour of the Teatro Colón, one of the most famous concert venues in the world.

The Teatro Colón is actually a replacement for the original opera house that was situated in the Plaza de Mayo where the Bank of the Nacion now stands.

The Teatro Colón was completed in 1908 and inaugurated with a performance of Aida; a fact that will be recreated on 25th May 2008 when the theatre re-opens after renovations with an inaugural performance of Aida.

This is one stunning building and highly ornate. Sadly, photographs are only allowed in the entrance lobby.

The painted ceilings and stained glass of the Golden Hall are bonito. This hall was inspired by the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles and it is used mainly for chamber concerts and also for press conferences.

The White Room is the venue for official receptions held by the President on both May 25th and on the Argentine independence day of July 9th. However, not even the President can sit on the Louis XV inspired seats which are original to the theatre.

Some quick theatre facts...

The Colón holds 3000 people, 500 of them standing.
The auditorium has 7 levels.
The boxes all have seating for 6 people, except the official box which is much larger.
At the base of the theatre lie the Widow's Boxes. The reason for this is that in the early 20th Century widows were not allowed to attend social functions for at least two years following their husbands death and so they could only attend performances if hidden from public view.
The Teatro Colón is considered to be the best theatre in the world in terms of acoustics.
The central chandelier is seven metres wide and has more than 600 lightbulbs.
The central chandelier is made of bronze and inside there is a corridor that holds 15 musicians and this is used in some productions to simulate the hidden sound of the heavens.
The theatre holds more than 90,000 costumes that are lent out around the world and 22,000 pairs of shoes.

Desending under the theatre it is like a whole subterranean city and the massive complex extents under the Avenida 9 de Julio, the world's widest street. This extension to the theatre was built in 1972 during the last enlargement of Avenida 9 de Julio. It reminds me of the Bodleian Library in Oxford which has its own railroad system under the Broad for moving books.

The rehersal room 9th July is the largest in the complex and it is the full size of the stage plus the orchestra pit to allow for full rehersal.

After my visit to the theatre lunch is served at the Café Del Teatro to the sound of an opera singing waitress; who on a number of occassions sang at our table whilst I ate smoked salmon.

My thoughts turn to my dear friend Ann who would simply have loved this experience, right down to the café character in the corner teaching the staff card tricks.

After lunch, Carlos and I head out to Recoleta with the intention of spending the afternoon at MALBA (the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) which is unfortunately closed. So we take in the Plaza Grecia and I enjoy walking the streets of Recoleta which are reminiscent of St John's Wood...this is upscale Buenos Aires!

We finish our lazy afternoon in the Plaza de Mayo and visit the stunning Catedral Metropolitana where the highlight is the tomb of José de San Martin the leader of Argentine independence and the liberator of Chile, Peru and Ecuador.

Triunfo En San Lorenzo 1813
Afirmo La Independencia Argentina 1816
Paso Los Andes 1817
Llevo Su Bandera Emancipadora Á Chile, Al Peru y Al Ecuador 1817 -1822

The cathedral is a stunning work of art and I was blinded by the light through yonder window breaking as I studied the stained glass of the central dome.

Tonight me intention was to dine at Cabaña Las Lilas which it is claimed has the best meat in Argentina. However, I am not posh enough and so there is no room at the inn for me. So I head next door to La Caballeriza .

Sitting here it is so civilised. It is my last night and I am having my last vino tinto in Argentina. Bob will be disappointed that it is only a half bottle...no-one to share it with you see; though it is a cabernet-merlot and that would meet his approval.

It feels like London dining by the river in full view of a floodlit historic ship set amongst docklands style wharfs.

I decide on a menu of Argentine delights and dine on blood sausage followed by beef steak.

My last meal in Argentina though proves to be a disappointment coupled with very poor service.

That said, I love this country. It has proved to be the most developed and best policed country I have seen in all of South America, and remember I have tasted all the joys bueno and mal that the continent musters.

A cute footnote though is this Argentine hire charge that you pay in restaurants to use the cutlery provided??